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Lower Buckhorn Wash
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Short Stack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Anderson
Page Views: 3,321
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Nov 28, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: The route in it's entirety.


This route is on the Chocolate Wall, which is located on the west side of Buckhorn Wash a couple tenths of a mile north of Pine Canyon. The route is easily visible from BWR as the prominent splitter facing the road on the dark face.The approach from the BWR is straighforward and takes about five to ten minutes.A very diverse route starting with 20' of 5.8 offwidth with protection in the crack behind. This gives way to some excellent small hands in the back of a V-pod and finishes with fingers or laybacking. Several good rests make this a very enjoyable climb.


Doubles or triples of each .75, 1, 2 Camalots

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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 27, 2003

I need to learn some better offwidth technique if that start is 5.8. Easily felt like the crux of the route to me.
By Wayne Harney
Apr 28, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Definitely stiff for 10d. Initial chimney is no big deal. A brutal stretch of relentless thin hands in a V slot to a rest, then a green camalot splitter finale. Off fingers or very delicate layback, yikes! Awesome route but hard for big hands.
By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Definetely a tough tick at 10d. Add this to the list of 10ds in the Swell that will kick many desert newbies asses. Just in case you're looking for more sandbagged 5.10s, try "once is enough" in Pine Canyon and "All Along the Watch Tower" at the Dylan Wall.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 9, 2010

FA was Dave Anderson.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Mar 5, 2012

fantastic route!
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 29, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

BURLY! The starting chimney is pretty straightforward if you're facing the right way. Take great care to protect the large roof exit from the chimney to the hands section. If you don't, the crack in that roof will eat your cams. Great finish!
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Apr 13, 2014

Another clue to describe the location of the Chocolate Wall is that it is directly across from Private Pizza Wall.

Two .75, five 1, three 2 camalots. Great rest before the final .75/stacks section.
By Nicholas Spiropulos
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 20, 2017
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This route is a straight up 5.11! Takes BD camelot #2s on the roof exit, then #1s in the flared section, then #0.75s up top. Place whatever in the chimney. It's possible that the rope will push your #2 cam deeper into the crack on the roof so be careful.

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