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short, shitty and sharp 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 39'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Doug Stout and Darrell Hodges
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 671
Submitted By: darrell hodges on Sep 19, 2009

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Some pockets are good, some aren't.


Here's a tip: if something looks like a huge mound of poo, that's not a hold.

Start under a roof, the first bolt is hard to see from the ground.
Pull through big positive holds with good feet and then ask yourself "what IS that rock?Petrified wood?"
Cruise up the slab and stop to wonder "why didn't FA comfortize some of those holds?" You can say this aloud if you want.

Say hello to some hornets. Don't worry- they're not aggressive. Unless you do something stupid like smack at them with a hat.

Now you're at the overhanging part.
There is a huge scary looking skull face on the rock face. Reach up into the mouth and grab the lower incisor.
Pull on that tooth until you can plunge your hand through an eye socket to find good holds in a sinus cavity.
Next you'll be lamenting the fact that it ended too soon.


20 feet to the right of Bushy Tailed Wood Rat, up the slope.
Look up and you will see a big face with two eye sockets big enough to stick your whole head in and a creepy leering upside down grin. The climb goes right through the face.


5 bolts to anchor

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