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a1. The Uberfall - left
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Unsorted Routes:

Short Job 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Gardiner, Mary Perry, and Carol Maken (1958)
Page Views: 2,161
Submitted By: AJWM Maracek on Sep 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: Pete at the top of Short Job.

Description 

At the beginning of the Uberfall, start on a blazed trail above the carriage road, under the same ceiling as 69.

I haven't done the second pitch, but the first pitch is a cool climb. It makes a great top rope at the end of the day, and kind of challenging for its grade. It's easy to set up a top rope on Pitch 1 by walking/scrambling up in between Short Job and Nice 5.9 Climb .

P1: Follow the crack to a large ledge. Climb the next right-facing corner to ceiling and exit left (crux) to another ledge. Through the jumbled blocks, an overhang, and a short face to a large belay ledge with a small tree at the edge. 5.3, 50'.

P2 (from guidebook): Climb left-leaning ramp followed by a small crack. Move up and left (crux) to top and walk off left. 5.4, 80'.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack. G-PG. Static/webbing to set up TR for first pitch.


Comments on Short Job Add Comment
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By kswissto
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

Climbed P1 and used rap tree to descend. P1 crux can be "protected" - if by protected you're okay with it being around a bunch of loose stuff looking like any fall will pull it down. DW says 5.3 first pitch, seems more like a 5.4.
By Eriks Rozners
From: Binghamton, NY
May 14, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The crux of P1 is not well protected. It is not too hard (5.4) but if you miss it, you will likely hit the ledge. After clearing the "crux", you can spice up the climb by going straight up through the roof, it will go at 5.5. The second pitch is excellent 5.5 and not to be missed. It requires solid footwork and is not hard but also not trivial.

Climbed it again this weekend (04/30/17). I had #4 C4 and it actually provided decent protection for the P1 crux corner to polished face move.
By Kurtz
Nov 19, 2016

The P1 crux may be 5.4 (if you lead 5.8). The rock is smooth so not recommended for a 5.4 leader. We saw no tree rapp station but you should definitely do P2 (which may be a notch harder but overall felt safer) and do the easy walk-off left.

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