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Short Flake T,TR 

Short Flake 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: R. Kyle Horst and Larry DeAngelo, December 1979
Page Views: 582
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Apr 6, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Short Flake

Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Rock is coarse, but of decent quality. the best feature of the route are the hand jams. This route is the crack that is to the right of the prominent dike.

Protection 

Crack takes good gear. take a #4 camalot. two bolt anchor.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 10, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Do this route prior to doing Short Cake and it will make that route a bit more enjoyable. Zero stars out of five.
By Jon Leicht
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

ouch, i would not give it a bomb - easy beginner crack lead with some nice characteristics, by no means a classic, but we thought it a "fun" route

Did not need a #4 plenty of places for smaller cams, .75 - 2, even good spots for hexes etc
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Sep 4, 2010

Definitely coarse, but definitely do-able if your jumping from one shady crack to the next and you over doing the great stuff on castle rock you might as well walk over and grab this one too.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Just barely an O.K. route, but not really worth the effort. Inside of crack was pretty crumbly. I called it a "bomb."
By Buddy Nielsen
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 15, 2017

Rock isn't great by any means but its not a bad lead for someone new looking to work on their crack skills. Bolts at the top and another set of bolts to rap off.

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