REI Community
Hodgepodge Rock - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bakersfield Bomb T 
Bittersweet T 
Briar Rabbit T 
Hedgehog T 
Hogback T 
Lockn00b Monster TR 
Lucy S 
Mineshat S 
Semisweet T 
Short Crack T 
Sweeny T 
Tumbleweed T 

Short Crack 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,154
Submitted By: Blitzo on Feb 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climbing "Short Crack."

Description 

Climb steep double cracks in a right facing corner near the right side of the wall.

Protection 

Pro to 2".


Photos of Short Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Short Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Short Crack". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Short Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

A fun, short climb, good for beginner trad leaders as the two cracks suck up plenty of pro.
By mmurduff Mic
Nov 3, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Awkward positioning early down low on the route makes me feel that this is not a beginner trad lead, despite a 5.4 rating (which I think is bogus). Sure it eats gear okay, but it requires a pretty cleaver stance to safely insert it. Two bolts (no ring, no chains) lay above the bulge just beyond the top of the crack.
By AndrewArroz
Jan 19, 2017

This one would be easy to overlook because it's short and because it's rated a 5.4. But I agree with the above comment that it's a great beginner lead. It's steeper than most 5.4 climbs but I'm guessing earned the rating because there are great hand holds and stances all over this thing. And cracks off to both the left and right. A person could truly put pro every 2 feet on either side of the main groove.

Also makes an excellent top rope using the anchor at the top of Briar Rabbit. As of a few days ago there were 2 good bolts with quick links there.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About