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Short Circuit TR 
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Short Circuit 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Stone Masters mid 1970's
Page Views: 6,064
Submitted By: Will S on Jun 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Tom Wright showin how it's done

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A classic and steep thin hands to fingers crack. Usually TR'ed but occasionally soloed. Nice hang spot at the base, and it gets shade most of the day.


This route is located on a giant boulder on an island in the river. Park at the Arch Rock entrance, walk up the road through the arched rock and to the point where the lanes of the road merge back together and a stone wall starts on the river side. Drop down to the river at the near end of the wall, and cross on easy boulder hopping to the obvious huge boulder. The route is on the downstream side.


TR off a 3/8" bolt. Back it up with a medium nut or finger sized cam. Scramble to the top from the corridor behind the route by using the arete/edge or straight up a weakness directly below. Could be led with a few thin hands to off-finger sized pieces, with an optional finger sized piece.

Photos of Short Circuit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Schneider TRs "Short Circuit" bare...
Steve Schneider TRs "Short Circuit" bare...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is a better sense of the crack... beautiful s...
BETA PHOTO: Here is a better sense of the crack... beautiful s...
Rock Climbing Photo: A better sense of the angle.
A better sense of the angle.
Rock Climbing Photo: Short Circuit
Short Circuit
Rock Climbing Photo: Good stuff
Good stuff
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome finger locks at the top!
Awesome finger locks at the top!
Rock Climbing Photo: "Short Circuit". Photo by Blitzo.
"Short Circuit". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Short Circuit
BETA PHOTO: Short Circuit

Comments on Short Circuit Add Comment
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By m-earle
From: USA
Oct 9, 2007

Exellent line. Defininately worth checkinging out if you dig crack problems.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Mar 24, 2008

Worth leading, if only to practice placing gear while hanging off of difficult jams. Take a #1, #.75, and #.5 Camalot. Great location, and a good place to jump in the river on a hot day.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I'd second that, definitely worth leading.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Oct 14, 2011

Worth leading, tr-ing, mini-ing, and soloing.

This area is down canyon so it is great in the winter. But don't leave this one off of your summer list either. It is under the shade of the trees and the river is literally right there waiting to cool you off.

My friend Jason Price and I use to hang a fixed line from it and play a game. Using mini-traxions, one of us would start up it. When that person reached the top, the second would start up while the first person down climbed the back side and ran around to the front. This would be repeated until the faster one could touch the slower one. Good times!
By Adam Stackhouse
Jan 18, 2012

By Jordan Cannon
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 3, 2016

Great problem. Reminds me of Mount Woodson in San Diego. Pretty steep, hard if you have big hands, but great jamming practice for thin hands and ring locks until you get to a good finger lock at the end. Still accessible in the spring with clever boulder hopping

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