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Short Attention Span 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ken Trout, Steve Stubblefield
Page Views: 1,450
Submitted By: Kristo torgersen on Aug 10, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Just past the intricate, reachy crux on Short Atte...

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  • Description 

    Short Attention Span ascends the face just right of the right-facing corner which gains access to the three sport lines that start off the top of the huge block. A few moves off of a good mono (no really, it's good!) gains a stance to clip the first bolt. It wouldn't be pretty to fall before this first clip. The technical crux comes at the third bolt with a few thin moves sideways, and then a second, height-dependant crux at the fourth bolt. From here, it's smooth sailing on 5.10 moves to the top. The anchors are up right of the last bolt. This line makes a good warm up for the other, more demanding routes on this wall.

    Protection 

    Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with rap rings.


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    Comments on Short Attention Span Add Comment
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    By TBD
    May 10, 2004

    While it's really the only "warm up route" for the other sport routes, it's tough because of the crimpy nature.
    By tom selleck
    Oct 23, 2008

    Sharp.

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