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Shoes of the Fisherman 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: F.A. Jeff Thomas & R. Moore '75 FFA J. Thomas '77
Page Views: 2,191
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Feb 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Making slightly awkward moves into and out of the ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Although SOTF gets the same grade as Wartley's Revenge, its neighbor to the left, the climbing is much more physically demanding.

Initially, the overhanging crack can be jammed with hands / fists but after deciphering the bulging crux the crack tapers to thin hands / fingers and remains demanding until close to the anchor.

If the pigeon guano down low and loose rock just underneath the anchor was absent this would be a 3 star route.


Stoppers and cams to 3" provide solid protection. Take doubles of .75" - 2" cams. Bolted rappel anchor at the top of the first pitch.

Photos of Shoes of the Fisherman Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the hidden crux wondering how secure the holds ...
At the hidden crux wondering how secure the holds ...

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By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 7, 2006

A fun climb that should get more attention. The birdshit in this route is horrendous but the climbing is great.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Apr 22, 2014

Yes, there is a little bit of rat urine and bird poop on this route. That being said, this is by far the longest and the best hand crack at Smith and deserves to get climbed with much more regularity. This thing feels more like climbing granite than climbing tuff. +1 that the rock in the last 10' is of poorer quality, but it would probably clean up if it got traffic...
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Mar 29, 2016

Get on this and don't mind those bros 'dogging Heresy, Shoes is OG! That last section of rock to the anchor did not seem like there was anything solid under there no matter how many ascents it sees. However it added to the full-on adventurous flavor of the route, in addition to the guano and awkward physical climbing out the overhang. The handcrack above is money. Way more rewarding send than your average Smith 5.11!
By Jon Rhoderick
Apr 25, 2017

Not too much poop on this one, the white stuff in the flare is actually some sort of quartz intrusion.

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