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Shoe Fetish 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Perhaps J. Finkelstein, B. Collett, June 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Jun 22, 2013

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Another view of the third pitch.

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Description 

If you like steep, well-protected rock in an airy setting, you'll love this.

1) From the toe of the south face, follow the crest of the buttress for around 650 feet stopping on a nice ledge just right of the prominent pillar where the wall steepens.

2) Follow the right-facing dihedral system formed by the pillar past a little roof around 25 feet up. At around 90 feet, one can step right into a fantastic finger crack in a smaller dihedral. As this ends, loosely follow the dihedral to a large ledge. Step right onto the east face and follow a weakness back left to a nice ledge on the south face, 5.10-, 230 feet. It probably makes sense to break this into two pitches.

3) Climb up and left into a steep flake system until it is possible to step back right to a small ledge. From the ledge, traverse right onto the east face and follow easy ground back towards a left-leaning crack on the south face. Climb into this and follow it until it narrows to fingers in white rock. At this point, one can traverse right to low angle rock on the east face, 5.11-, 140 feet.

4) Head up easier ground back to the south face below an overhanging, featured, left-leaning crack. Follow this to a nice large ledge on the arete, 5.10, 100 feet.

5) Head up the narrow arete to the summit, 5.8 R, 80 feet.

To descend, do not rap off the block on the summit with the tat on it. It moves rather easily and is a testament to someone's rashness. Downclimb about 20 feet on the northeast side of the spire to a two nut anchor, rap 35 meters to a grassy ledge with another two nut anchor. From here, a 30m rappel leads to some grassy ledges. From there, one can downclimb into the gully to the east of the feature and hike back down the gully to the packs.

Location 

The route loosely follows the southeast arete of the Stiletto.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot.


Photos of Shoe Fetish Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route is marked in blue.
BETA PHOTO: The route is marked in blue.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh nearing the end of pitch 3. Photo: Ben Chapma...
Josh nearing the end of pitch 3. Photo: Ben Chapma...

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