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d. Strictly - Shockley's
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Shockley's Ceiling 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 275'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bill Shockley, Doug Kerr, 1953
Page Views: 43,940
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006

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the late great Roger Marshall in the mid 80's

Description 

This route is considered to be one of the top three 5.6 routes at the Gunks, with High E and Madame G being the other two. The first two pitches can be linked up with Strictly From Nowhere - climb past the first roof of Strictly, and make a traverse right to the belay just below the Shockley's roof. P1 and P2 can easily be combined.

The Shockley's access trail is located almost exactly where the East Trapps Connector Trail (the Stairmaster) meets the carriage road. This is about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.

P1: Start 25' right and uphill from Strictly in a large right-facing dihedral. Follow a chimney (or climb the face to the left) to an awkward step around a roof. 5.4, 50'.

P2: Angle up and right into a steep right-facing corner. Follow fun jugs to a lichen-y slab finish. Belay on the large ledge below the roofs. 5.5, 120'.

P3: The money pitch: Jam the hand crack through the roof. After making the crux move, place some gear for your 2nd. Continue through the second roof and follow a crack system to the clifftop. 5.6, 100'.

Communication from the clifftop is notoriously bad - plan accordingly (and also know that people on the carriage road will hear you and your partners much better than you will hear each other - this is often quite amusing! -JSH).

Descent: Traverse to the left and rap 3 times with a single rope down Strictly From Nowhere. The Uberfall Descent is about as quick as rapping, and probably a better option for larger parties or on weekends.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of Shockley's Ceiling Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1957 Shockley's Ceiling-climber Marianne Marquardt...
1957 Shockley's Ceiling-climber Marianne Marquardt...
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's...
Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's...
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2 roof
BETA PHOTO: pitch 2 roof
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Jen pulling the classic roof.  (Short people bewar...
Jen pulling the classic roof. (Short people bewar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the first crux roof.  An explorato...
Looking down on the first crux roof. An explorato...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chilly day on Shockley's
Chilly day on Shockley's
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the move
Pulling the move
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber a few feet above the first crux ro...
Unknown climber a few feet above the first crux ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek underneath the first crux roof.
Derek underneath the first crux roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing
Finishing
Rock Climbing Photo: She demonstrated a lot of strength during this str...
She demonstrated a lot of strength during this str...
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig Plescia - Summer 2015  Wedging in there for ...
Craig Plescia - Summer 2015 Wedging in there for ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start
BETA PHOTO: Start
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice shot from the hairpin on 12 December of someo...
Nice shot from the hairpin on 12 December of someo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crystal begins negotiating the roof.
Crystal begins negotiating the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: under the crux
BETA PHOTO: under the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse looking up at Shockley's Ceiling.  We traver...
Jesse looking up at Shockley's Ceiling. We traver...
Rock Climbing Photo: My lead of the money pitch. Thank you Ashlee for t...
BETA PHOTO: My lead of the money pitch. Thank you Ashlee for t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Of course, it wasn't entirely over.  Here she appr...
Of course, it wasn't entirely over. Here she appr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek and Crystal from Gloversville, NY.  Starting...
Derek and Crystal from Gloversville, NY. Starting...
Rock Climbing Photo: Many options exist.  This being the groin jam tech...
Many options exist. This being the groin jam tech...
Rock Climbing Photo: Elbows, thighs, whatever it takes.
Elbows, thighs, whatever it takes.
Rock Climbing Photo: AJ pulling the roof
AJ pulling the roof

Show All 41 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Shockley's Ceiling Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 11, 2017
By Paul Crowder
Mar 7, 2006

The crux roof was the scene of my first ever leader fall, in Fall 1977, onto an archaic pin. I was sure that I was going to die. Its rating, at 5.6, is a sandbag, but it's not the only sandbag at the Gunks in this rating range. It's an amazing climb. A truly high-quality outing for the solid 5.8 leader who is experienced with traditional gear. A potential horror fest for anyone else.
By John Peterson
Mar 7, 2006

The popularity of this route has a lot more to do with the classic photo-op at the roof and the proximity to the road than the climbing itself. It's an OK route but the crux is a real grunt (well protected though!) and definitely not really 5.6. The rest of the route is OK but not classic. It's also notorious for long waits at the crux pitch--I've seen parties take hours to clear this. Note that you can easily bail to the left ("Shockley's Without") instead of waiting for some poor panicked novice that keeps swinging into space.

Waiting in line for Shockley's is a waste of time--there are plenty of better lines at the grade. If you want another classic 5.6 in the area, go for Arch / Wrist.
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Mar 15, 2006

A definite must for anyone looking for the Gunks experience. Hit it during the week. Start on the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere to the top of the block and then right onto Shockley's. The roof move is not that difficult. All of 5.6+. I think the tougher move is just before topping out, jamming the wide crack when you are out of your #2 cause you used it under the roof.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 11, 2009

At 5'2", I found the first roof crux very doable. I thought the second crux was harder!

All climbing leading up to the roof is fun, happy and easy.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

It might be worth noting that the route is named for one of the contributors to the invention of the semi-conductor, and eventually the integrated circuit, which we all are lucky enough to utilize whilst contributing to, and consuming, this site!

Awesome climb. Do it in the "classic" way. In the buff.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Sep 4, 2012

just climbed this for the first time since 2004 when I got caught in a rainstorm on the third pitch. 5.6 seems about right but maybe tougher for shorter climbers who are not used to hand jams. Taller climbers need not hand jam (if it's dry). superb gear. The optional belay above the ceiling makes life easier if you have any concerns about your second and permits good photos.
By Tom D
From: New York
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Save one or two number 1"-ish pieces for the second roof on the third pitch to prevent runout. I only had small gear left. Managed to squeeze a 0.4 by a pin. Pulling the roof and the first pitch crux felt 5.7ish
By Cedric B
From: New York, New York
Jun 19, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I did the money pitch 3 in two pitches, mostly because it was my partner's second day outside and wanted to be able to communicate with him when he pulled the famous Shockley's roof, which he did like a champ! I think the Dick Williams guidebook recommends belaying about 10-15 feet afterwards in a comfortable left-facing corner. I placed a ton of pro in case my second needed to pull on gear over the roof (it eats pro!).

I also agree with gblauer, the last roof felt a little trickier; fewer jugs than the shockley's roof. I am 5'7" and didn't think anything was too reachy, just get those feet up! and definitely didn't think it was harder than gunks 5.6, as long as you're OK pulling roofs.
By Stephen Bittner
Sep 23, 2014

First and second pitch are nothing special. The 3rd pitch is super fun. If you want a 4 star climb, link the Oscar corner to Strictley roof, and then continue on to Shockley's 3rd Pitch. The 4 stars here is for the 3rd pitch alone.
By losbill
Sep 24, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

link the Oscar corner to Strictley roof, and then continue on to Shockley's 3rd Pitch

Just don't do it on a busy day since you will really tick off people coming up Strictley's and Shockley's. Besides it isn't all that good. Oscar's corner is just so-so and the second pitch is a long boring traverse over to Shockley's roof.
By SethG
Sep 24, 2014

Losbill, are you serious? Oscar's into Strictly's is a great great pitch!

Obviously you shouldn't cut someone off who is already leading the routes. That would be jerky. But barring that, you are within your rights to lead Oscar's into Strictly's into Shockley's-- one of the best moderate climbs anywhere imho.

If your party doesn't have anyone who will be likely to struggle at the roof and you have a 70 meter rope, you can take it all the way from the Strictly's chains through the Shockley's crux pitch and to the top of the cliff in one long pitch. I've actually done it with a 60 meter rope, but it just barely made it. Depending on your particular rope and what your leader does to set an anchor, a 60 might come up just a tad short.
By Ryan M Moore
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jun 4, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Roof is super fun, and super well protected not sure if there's an elegant way up it, but it certainly is no more difficult than a single 5.7/8 move at a softer area and right in line for other 5.6 routes at the Gunks. Definitely follow the MP pitch breakdown and not the Gray Dick.
By Lev Kisselman
Jul 4, 2017

We rappelled down in one go with two 70m ropes, it was juu-ust enough
By David Kerkeslager
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 11, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My leader got overexcited and did the entire thing in one pitch. This would be impossible with a 60m rope, and I was shouting "that's me" as he finished with a 70m rope. I don't recommend trying this in one pitch.

Don't try this if you're not a solid 5.8 leader. First and second pitches are 5.4/5.5, but there's no way the ceiling is less than 5.8.

I sliced a finger open on a crystal when I cut feet and held on with only my right hand. Didn't fall! Despite the sandbag and doing the whole thing in one pitch, this was a great climb.

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