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Shock the Monkey T 

Shock the Monkey 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Mark Rolofson, Fall 1983
Page Views: 770
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Nov 17, 2008

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Description 

This exceptionally fine steep crack is any trad climbers dream, with great gear, hard moves, clean rock, safe falls, and best of all pump factor that keeps you desperatly jamming with lactic acid bloated arms until the very end. Every gear placement can be seen from the ground, taking finger-to hand sized peices in the lower roof, do a fun technical steep crux, thread your fingers the natural ring and place a fist sized piece, and traverse out the last part of the roof doing gaston hand jams and clever footwork to pull around the corner to a nice 5.7 crack to the top.

Location 

Right in the middle of the sport cliff, this is the obvious, steep roof crack just left of Fiddler Under the Roof, and right of The Albatross.

Protection 

(In BD Camalots) doubles from #0.3s to #2s, and one #3 (fist-sized) for the middle of the roof. There is an old sling at the top, which is looking a bit worst for wear, with a quicklink. Bolted anchor anyone? Or shall we replace it with another sling to rot?


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By Drew Thayer
From: Laramie, WY
May 3, 2011

This excellent route now has two good bolts with hangers at the anchor.
By chipacles
May 28, 2012

This route may have just gotten harder: I pulled a rather large piece off from inside the crack just before the route goes vertical. It's now wide enough for, probably, a #4 Camalot. Not sure how that will affect the grade, but it freaked me out...glad my belayer was way under the overhang.
By Mark Rolofson
May 23, 2017

Here is a correction on the FA date: Fall 1983. This info can be found in an old Climbing magazine (#82 - February 1984). This route was climbed on the same day as the first ascent of "Moonage Daydream" (.12b) by Rolofson & D'Antonio.
By Ben Schmitt
May 23, 2017

Thanks, Mark, this is classic!

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