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a2. The Uberfall - right
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Shitty Mitty 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: George Willig and Jim Thompson, 1973
Page Views: 532
Submitted By: Optimistic on Jun 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Some nice movement here...slammer hand jams down low, then some techy crimping, and then pleasant face climbing above the crux.

Follow the hand crack up and left to some horizontals and a pretty suspect looking knifeblade. This can be backed up with several small cams directly adjacent, and more in the horizontals just below if you wanted. A couple of tough moves off crimps up the shallow left-facing corner follow, and if you lead this (we didn't) your gear will be at or below your feet when you latch the good holds. Easier (8ish?) climbing follows above that, and then you can either step right around the corner or follow the left-hand edge of the block. Maybe the center of the block was the original route, but there's a lot of lichen there now. The upper section seems like it might not have the best pro. I think people usually TR this...if they do it at all!

Location 

At a crack on an overhanging face about 15 feet right of Rhododendron and right next to Das Wiggles.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack including some 1/2-3/4" cams to supplement the pin. TR is a little awkward: 30' runner and/or static line helpful up top. A couple of directionals down on the face will be needed to make sure your anchor doesn't pop off the narrow face of the block.


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