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Shitska and Cheese 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tom Perkins
Page Views: 582
Submitted By: Stephen Nance on Aug 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Climb the front left side of rock right of the black streak route (12a).

Location 

This is 2 routes to the right of the black streak route (12a).

Protection 

3 bolts and cams.


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By Stephen Nance
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2006

3 bolts and cams front left side of rock, 2 routes to the right of the black streak route (12a).
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 1, 2008

What a crux! Straight up through the two shallow cracks didn't feel like mid 5.11 at all, I went left but this didn't feel like the true line. Any beta?
By Lee Jenkins
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Jul 1, 2008

Going left is offroute onto a no name .10+. The route ascends the twin cracks at the 1st bolt bulge then stays in the bolt line to the top. Agree it is a bit cruxy but it's all there....
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 2, 2008

I didn't really join the route next to it, I didn't move that far over. I traversed about 4 feet left at the first bolt, stood up and reached for the flat ledge directly between the first 2 bolts, and then worked my way over to the right hand lockoff for the 2nd clip.

Lee, how do you move up the 2 cracks? I couldn't slot them (too flared) or lieback them (too slopey). Is there something I'm missing? It just seemed really hard for the grade.

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