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Lower Blair III
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A Dream of Fat Antelope T 
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Bragging About Jesus S 
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Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 
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Middle Notch T,TR 
Outer Dark T 
Outer Notch T 
Penetration T 
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 
Putter T 
Random Crystals T 
Scratch the Surface T 
Shit Talk (aka Gameday) T 
Sketch Palsy S 
Son of a Wanted Man T 
Sweet Variation T 
Take 5 T 
Unicorn Exterminator T 
Unremembered T 
Unsorted Routes:

Shit Talk (aka Gameday) 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a X [details]
FA: James Arnold, Lauren Austin, psyched Will Eslinger (SF)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 510
Submitted By: Warrior on Sep 18, 2015

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Nearly crapped out....

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This Shit Talk is complicated, crappy, and kind of crazy!

Start with a mantle up on grotty ledge near past an reddish quartz dike to an obvious undercut flake. Work this to the right until you can access the long horizontal crack.

Climb this horizontal straight left for 40', passing through a wide section with kneebars and invert through the poo. A crux move comes an invert & pivot (can also be done with powerful knee bars) then grabbing a big block of dried dung and exiting the wide.

After this section, a 1" foothold provides stance enough to shake out and switch ropes (to mitigate drag). Pump through seasonal green slime on fists and licheny feet to access the meat of the route, a pretty overhanging hand crack. Fire this and you are mostly done....

An easy but unbolted face for 30' guards the top. A fall from the top would probably be fatal, so I will tentatively give this an X rating. If you've made it this far, you probably wouldn't fall...one would hope...

  • ***If anyone wants to take the X out and put in bolts to make this route safe, that is fine with the FA team.****

I repeat:

  • ***If anyone wants to take the X out and put in bolts to make this route safe, that is fine with the FA team.****

Also, the optimal anchor placement is probably on the gigantic boulder that sits atop the handcrack...again, permission is given to bolt both the anchor and the face to make this a safer route!!!

This route was sent on the last day of a trip and the first day of the NFL 2015 season!~ Go Broncos!

This route is not for fecal-phobics! It features one of the Voo's "crappiest cruxes". More than likely, the crappiest....

2 rope technique is suggested.

Location 

This is on Blair III, on the SW corner. Look for the striking overhanging hand crack about 34' off the ground, 100 yards to the right of near where you can scramble up the formation. Then look at the 50' horizontal crack you need to do to access the overhanging hand crack. There is a reddish dike angling up and right at the start. Another obvious marker is the widest part of the horizontal crack with a rather large (3.5 foot) block of guano hanging out (crux).

Protection 

A full rack to 6". Very large hexes or tubes may take some of the danger out. Weird sideways fall forces and very odd crack geometry may make for a pretty heady redpoint. I pinkpointed, because it seems pretty dangerous and I didn't have a bunch of big hexes around. There are no anchors, see the description....


Comments on Shit Talk (aka Gameday) Add Comment
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By Warrior
From: Rock City, GA
Sep 18, 2015

Personal grade is 5.12b. We are trying a new system at the Voo. Also translates to 5.11d+++.
By Patrick Kingsbury
Sep 19, 2015

A stunner of a line. Congrats, James!

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