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Shit for Brains 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Powell, 1966
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006  with updates from Benjamin Chapman

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Shit for Brains.


"Shit For Brains" lies in short distance right of where the trail going south from Lunch Rock first touches the base of the rock. Four bolts will be seen on the slab above. Climb a debris filled crack on the left side of the slab. At the cracks end move right onto the face and work up and right to a flared hole that takes gear. Continue up the steepening face to a high first bolt. Climb up and left from the bolt over orange rock to more featured rock and a second bolt. Pass a horizontal that takes a 0.5 cam to reach a 3rd bolt. You will climb past four bolts total to a ledge with a pine tree (105) feet. "Shit for Brains" is a rope stretcher, so be careful. It is advisable for the belayer to move up the rocky step to the right in order for the rope to reach the ground, if toproping . Although the runout nature of "Shit For Brains" may not appeal to some it is a fun endeavor for those wishing to test their face climbing/ friction skills.

Rappel from a tree at the end of the climb.


Some small gear for the crack below the first bolt.

Photos of Shit for Brains Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Holt leading Shit for Brains.
Josh Holt leading Shit for Brains.

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By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 3, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

So-so climbing on it's own, but it can be done as an alternate first pitch to Fingertrip when that route is crowded.
By Adam Stackhouse
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

kind of odd to protect as I recall (pod or pocket), although bolts protect afterwards.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007

The crux is pretty simple and nice to make you feel good about yourself. Once you get to the first bolt (one committing move) the rest feels very well protected. The upper face is really easy.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008

A #1 Friend fits just right in that pocket and is the key pro.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
May 21, 2012

Adding to the namesake of this route, often the bottom is splattered in sap.
By Tony Yeary
From: Arcadia, Califoria
Aug 4, 2016

Just did this route today for the first time in many years. We used a small cam in the pod to protect the friction to the first bolt. Old school, friction and runout face climbing. It's a good pitch. No sap today!

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