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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: scott Stevenson 1986
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This is a Gear protected link up that starts on The Skewer, Climbs a pretty corner and links up to the second half of Gunboat Diplomacy.

Basically climb 2 bolts on the Skewer move left around the corner in to a nice corner with a seam running up it. Make a few easy moves before getting to a decent stance where this get blank. Plug in a few small nuts and pull the crux. I did a lunge/dyno to a sloping edge then on to easier holds and bolts on Gunboat to it's anchor.

Shorter folks will have a hard time on crux i think.

Easily TRed after doing Gunboat but use a few directionals.


Between the two routes in the description.


a few small nuts and a micro cam or two and 10 or 12 draws.

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 29, 2011

I think this is actually a really good route, but it seldom gets done since you need gear for the corner in the middle. Scott had an eye for good lines. Being tall and limber would help with this. I'm neither, so I thought I was going to split in half while stemming the beautiful orange corner. Even if you are not up for leading, it is definitely worth checking out on TR after doing Gunboat.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I had the first two bolts clipped above the slabby dihedral to start on top rope.
It is a much better start than Gunboat. The start of Skewer is a fun section then finding a way to go up the dihedral is interesting.You've got everything you need for a 5.11c.
By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
Jul 30, 2015

How safe is the crux/dyno before this route transitions into Gunboat? I'd love to get on this thing, and am a bit curious about the PG13 rating... Thanks!
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 30, 2015

It would have been sketchy if I hadn't previewed it and found the key nut placement. So, when i did it I felt safe but if the nut wasn't sound and it popped, then you would have a problem... I tested the move and found the gear before sending it "head point style"... easy to check it out after leading Gunboat..
By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
Aug 1, 2015

Thanks Lee. I'll check it out on TR first. Psyched!

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