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YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FFA: Greg Olsen, Dick Cilley, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 3,218
Submitted By: Eric8 on Apr 12, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: the stemming crux off shirley

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


A classic pitch with a somewhat feared reputation. Fear not though as the gear is good and the climbing soft for the grade. Starts on juggy holds and liebacks left of thin fingers before tackling the meat of the climb, a stemming section with few to no small hand holds.

There is a second 10d pitch above that will put you at the base of Death to Zeke, that I haven't done.


standard rack

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By Drewsky
Dec 31, 2008

AKA Buried Treasure.
By C Miller
From: CA
Dec 31, 2008

Named after Dick Cilley's mother.
By calvino
From: Marblemount, WA
Jan 30, 2014

I was glad to have an orange Metolius TCU before starting up the crux stemming section.
By James Ellis
From: Seattle, Washington
Aug 17, 2015

Some small offset nuts would be really nice at the crux. The gear there gets very thin and tricky which can be a bit of a surprise if you don't know what you're getting into.
By Jeremy Park
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 15, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Route takes a perfect brassy and offset right below the crux. Don't even try to get gear in the left crack. Just stim for your life and punch it for the chains. Don't worry the fall is completely safe...

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