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Shirley You Can't Be Serious 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Tirrell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 528
Submitted By: Ol Toby on May 8, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Indeed.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route adds an easier start and a hard variation finish to the classic pitch "Shirley" at the LTW.

First clip a bolt and climb up into the corner system right of Shirley. When that corner ends place a thin piece or two and step left to rejoin Shirley. This start is approximately 10+.

Next climb Shirley into the hand-jam pod below the crux stemming on that route. Reach left and clip a bolt out on the arete, then down-climb until both hands are on the jug flake on the left side of the Shirley pillar. From here, climb up and left into the oblique dihedral past two more bolts, encountering two distinct boulder problems on the way to the NAD ledge.

I found this route to be a bit harder than its neighbor, Narrow Arrow Direct, but not as hard as the Narrow Arrow Overhang. While the crux section is short the climbing is powerful and sustained with good movement and the rig makes a nice addition to the hard climbing at the wall.

Location 

Start in the corner system right of Shirley, finish on the NAD ledge.

Protection 

4 bolts plus gear for Shirley. 2-bolt anchor with chain on top.


Photos of Shirley You Can't Be Serious Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo showing the upper boulder problems of Shirley...
BETA PHOTO: Topo showing the upper boulder problems of Shirley...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route viewed from the base.
BETA PHOTO: Route viewed from the base.

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