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The Ship's prow
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Ship's Prow 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1700'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: L. MacKay & C. Scott, 1965 F.F.A.: S. Parboosingh. N. Preshaw & R. Preshaw, 1989
Season: Summer
Page Views: 73
Submitted By: Tom Gnyra on Apr 18, 2016

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Description 

From Chris Perry's Banff Rock:

The prow itself is a fine, natural line but the climb is spoilt somewhat by poor rock in the lower section and the long approach. A prominent feature, near the top, is a steep slab of gray rock undercut by overhangs. This “headwall” was originally climbed using aid but a free ascent has now been made.

Start about 100 m left of the prow below a wide, waterworn scoop. Scramble up for 25 m and belay.

1) 45 m, 5.7 Climb the scoop to a bay above a ledge. Move up with difficulty to a narrow ledge that leads left to shattered grooves. Climb these to easier ground above and continue up left to a poor belay.

2-3) 90 m Scramble up right to an edge, cross a wide gully and move up to a bowl on the left side of a lesser buttress, below and left of a prominent roof.

4-5) 90 m, 5.1 Climb the right side of the bowl and continue up a ridge to a large ledge running out right to the prow.

6) 25 m Walk right along the ledge and belay at a flake about 20 m before the prow.

7) 35 m, 5.5 Climb diagonally right to the prow and continue up this on good holds to a ledge.

8) 40 m, 5.8 Follow a groove system just right of the prow to a small ledge.

9) 45 m, 5.6 Gain an easy corner above and climb up to a stance on the far right side of the headwall, on the ridge crest (piton).

10) 30 m, 5.10b (or 5.7 and A2) Edge upward above the piton for 4 m until it is possible to step left onto a sloping slab (marginal protection). Move up to a fixed piton in a horizontal crack (old tension traverse). The piton may also be reached by following a thin crack to the left of the belay and using a few points of aid (original line). Move left from the piton either free or using tension to reach a vertical crack system that leads up to a wide slot in the upper band of overhangs (piton).

11) 40 m, 5.9 Struggle up out of the slot and follow a crack above until it is possible to move right on small holds onto clean slabs. Follow these up to a precariously balanced flake on the right.

12) 30 m, 5.4 Follow loose chimneys to the top.

Location 

The obvious prow, follow it up!

Protection 

Pins, standard trad rack, other stuff you may want to bring.


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By Roy Preshaw
Jul 2, 2017

Banff Park Warden Simon Parboosingh died in a serac collapse on Mt Athabaskar in 1994. Descend down the west slope where we left bicycles to get back to Canmore.

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