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Ship's Prow

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bologna Pony T,S 
Etch-A-Sketch T 
Half Day's Work T 
Ice Cream Turned to Shit T 
Keel Haul T 
Man Overboard T 
Portal T 
Sarchasm S 
Scots on the Rocks T 
Ship Of Fools T,S 
Tunnel of Love T 
Yard Arms T 

Ship's Prow Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,800'
Location: 40.2543, -105.605 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,165
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 30, 2002
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Ship's Prow from the North East end of Chasm Lake.

Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>


The Ship's Prow is the comparatively small crag to the south (left) of Chasm Lake on the way up to the Diamond of Long's Peak. While it seems diminutive at first glance, it's actually a good, steep cliff ranging from 300-500 feet tall -- it just looks small because of the backdrop.

The routes here are all trad, with the exception of Bologna Pony and Sarchasm on the far right. In 2004-6, Topher Donahue has put up some 5.13s here, Yardarms, Etch-a-Sketch, and The Keel Haul.

There is plenty of room for development especially along the continuation of South-facing side Ship's Prow which is also known as Glacier Ridge.

Descent either are done by rappel, continuing west on the ridge to the West side of Chasm Lake, or a treacherous ramp right of the Great Dihedral (consider rappels in here).

Getting There 

Follow the Long's Peak trail (the standard slog, aka "Long's Peak East Trail") for about 3.5 miles to a small saddle above treeline where the trail splits. Take the left fork to Chasm Lake (it's signed); you'll reach the lake in about 20 minutes from this junction.

The Ship's Prow is the obvious, prow-shaped formation just south and uphill of the lake. It sits just right of the long talus slope leading up to The Loft.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.3 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Ship's Prow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ship's Prow:
Portal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 440'   
Scots on the Rocks   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550'   
Bologna Pony   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 280'   
Sarchasm   5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ship's Prow

Featured Route For Ship's Prow
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the first belay. The first pitch m...

Bologna Pony 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Colorado : Alpine Rock : ... : Ship's Prow
This is an airy, exposed but totally safe journey up the impressive hanging arete on the far right side of the Ship's Prow (the north-facing side just above Chasm Lake). An awesome route in its own right, this is also a good Plan B tick if things are looking wet and/or ominous on the Diamond.P1: (12a) Though the cracks on the sunny east side of the arete beckon, the first pitch actually climbs a thin, tips splitter around the right side of the arete, on the north-facing wall. Climb a 1.5" crack ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Ship's Prow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eerie photo, looks like a Ship's prow coming throu...
Eerie photo, looks like a Ship's prow coming throu...
Rock Climbing Photo: The South Face of Ship's Prow.
BETA PHOTO: The South Face of Ship's Prow.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ships prow as seen from east ridge of Meeker
BETA PHOTO: Ships prow as seen from east ridge of Meeker
Rock Climbing Photo: Ship's Prow viewed from the north side of Chasm La...
BETA PHOTO: Ship's Prow viewed from the north side of Chasm La...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Ship's Prow and Mount Meeker.
The Ship's Prow and Mount Meeker.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ship's Prow in the clouds.
Ship's Prow in the clouds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ship's Prow on early morning approach to Long's Ea...
Ship's Prow on early morning approach to Long's Ea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ship's Prow in November 09.
Ship's Prow in November 09.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ship's Prow from MLW.
Ship's Prow from MLW.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ships Prow north side above Chasm Lake
BETA PHOTO: Ships Prow north side above Chasm Lake

Comments on Ship's Prow Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2003
The walk off from this is difficult to find, then at best, loose and dangerous. As well, the noted downclimb of Gangplank's top pitch (5.7, loose) to reach Ship Of Fools is not [recommended]. With this in mind, we took Gillett's suggestion in his recent book to heart and put in an anchor up top. No bolts were required, as this was done on hexes and slings. Lower raps were also rebuilt or reinforced. The last rap still needs a 20' webbing around the big flake to back up the cable. Sorry, I was out of stuff when we arrived.

It is presently possible to descend the formation safely via rappel on Ship Of Fools. Before you "booty" this gear, please consider the intent of those who placed it as a community service. The new station is not at all visible from anywhere but where it stands and is not an eyesore. As well, if you take the gear, you'll end up doing a nasty loose downclimb 450' up, or walking off the back side. I've done that before and it sucks- the objective hazard of loose rock and gravel on slopes after last year's slide is not very reasonable.

By Jason Haas
Aug 5, 2015
Half Day's Work, just left of Stromboli, went free by Tony Bubb and myself last weekend. The grade was easy enough that if anyone had repeated the route, they most likely would have done it free. However, Bernard Gillet, Richard Rossiter, Dumais, and even the park rangers have never heard of or seen anyone on the route, and all hold we did an FFA. The original pins (some less than a quarter driven) were still on route and help mark the way. A rack to #3 Camalot is sufficient, and the photo on p71 of Rossiter's new book marks the way.

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