Ship's Prow Rock Climbing
Ship's Prow from the North East end of Chasm Lake.
The Ship's Prow is the comparatively small crag to the south (left) of Chasm Lake on the way up to the Diamond of Long's Peak. While it seems diminutive at first glance, it's actually a good, steep cliff ranging from 300-500 feet tall -- it just looks small because of the backdrop.
The routes here are all trad, with the exception of Bologna Pony
on the far right. In 2004-6, Topher Donahue has put up some 5.13s here, Yardarms, Etch-a-Sketch, and The Keel Haul.
There is plenty of room for development especially along the continuation of South-facing side Ship's Prow which is also known as Glacier Ridge.
Descent either are done by rappel, continuing west on the ridge to the West side of Chasm Lake, or a treacherous ramp right of the Great Dihedral (consider rappels in here).
Follow the Long's Peak trail (the standard slog, aka "Long's Peak East Trail") for about 3.5 miles to a small saddle above treeline where the trail splits. Take the left fork to Chasm Lake (it's signed); you'll reach the lake in about 20 minutes from this junction.
The Ship's Prow is the obvious, prow-shaped formation just south and uphill of the lake. It sits just right of the long talus slope leading up to The Loft.
Climbing Season For the Long's Peak area.
Weather station 5.3 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Ship's Prow
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ship's Prow
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ship's Prow:
Portal 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 440'
Bologna Pony 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 280'
Sarchasm 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Ship's Prow
Sarchasm 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a CO
: Alpine Rock
: ... : Ship's Prow
This route is the brilliant clean arete on the right side of the Ships Prow. Direct start to the Baloney Pony (5.12c). Start Just right of the arete and grab holds and no holds for 8 bolts to an obvious jug where the first pitch of Baloney Pony meets the arete. Put in a couple of stoppers and mantle to the anchors. I would say the business is somewhere between the sixth and eighth bolt but the whole bloody thing is hard. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2003
The walk off from this is difficult to find, then at best, loose and dangerous. As well, the noted downclimb of Gangplank's top pitch (5.7, loose) to reach Ship Of Fools is not [recommended]. With this in mind, we took Gillett's suggestion in his recent book to heart and put in an anchor up top. No bolts were required, as this was done on hexes and slings. Lower raps were also rebuilt or reinforced. The last rap still needs a 20' webbing around the big flake to back up the cable. Sorry, I was out of stuff when we arrived.
It is presently possible to descend the formation safely via rappel on Ship Of Fools. Before you "booty" this gear, please consider the intent of those who placed it as a community service. The new station is not at all visible from anywhere but where it stands and is not an eyesore. As well, if you take the gear, you'll end up doing a nasty loose downclimb 450' up, or walking off the back side. I've done that before and it sucks- the objective hazard of loose rock and gravel on slopes after last year's slide is not very reasonable.
By Jason Haas
Aug 5, 2015
Half Day's Work, just left of Stromboli, went free by Tony Bubb and myself last weekend. The grade was easy enough that if anyone had repeated the route, they most likely would have done it free. However, Bernard Gillet, Richard Rossiter, Dumais, and even the park rangers have never heard of or seen anyone on the route, and all hold we did an FFA. The original pins (some less than a quarter driven) were still on route and help mark the way. A rack to #3 Camalot is sufficient, and the photo on p71 of Rossiter's new book marks the way.