A classic committing route that starts up the "Curving Crack
" but busts straight up at it's apex and over the roof above. Don't blow out on this one; the worst climbing injury in my life was trying to spot some drunken "climber" who blew out at the roof. (The Beta is to grab the undercling with your LEFT! hand and toe bar the crack with your left toe.) A lot easier now when a flake broke and formed a huge new hold for your right foot.
Don't Fall !
By Tom Painter
May 6, 2003
Funny that The BETA is the polar opposite of what I've been spewing as The BETA for 15 years now. Then Jeff Ellison spewed The BETA (left) at me a few months back when I was instead using The BETA (right). But The BETA (right) is so deeply incised in my failing muscle memory that it seems easier than The BETA (left). Besides, The BETA (right) makes you look more like Patrick Edlinger (he was a rad blond Frenchie honer for you little kids).
Therefore, I propose that The BETA is to get off your ass and do the Reach with The BETA and then come back down and do the Reach again with The BETA.
It strikes me that we should stop acting like Old Farts and use the term 'DVD'. "Dude, what wanking Old Fart stuck you with that Nancy DVD?"