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Mayflower Direct T 
Mutiny on the Bounty T 
On The Edge T 
Pilgrims Progress T 
Prow, The T 
Red Sky at Night T 
Rumbleseat T 
Sail Away T 
Ship Of Fools T 
Shittin Bricks T 
Shotgun T 
UKD (Unusual Killing Device) T 
Yardarm T 

Ship Of Fools 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Grossman, Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley
Season: Spring to Fall
Page Views: 4,192
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Nice November day at the Prow.

Description 

Ship of Fools is located in the middle of the right side (east-facing) side of The Prow. A boulder problem up steep rock deposits you into a shallow left-facing corner above. Follow this up to the rim via easier climbing.

Protection 

SR.


Photos of Ship Of Fools Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ship of fools Photo by Hilary Davis
Ship of fools Photo by Hilary Davis
Rock Climbing Photo: Ship of Fools
Ship of Fools

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By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The start of this route seems to keep getting harder. I'd now consider the boulder problem to be at least 5.10.
By Larry Coats
Oct 28, 2007

A safety trick for the start that was revealed to me quite late, after scaring myself getting off the ground many times- a #3 Friend (or probably a blue Camalot) fits in a VERY inobvious slot under the left side of the overhang (rotate the cam 180 degrees to check that you have the right placement). It truly is solid, and provides excellent pro for the start.
By juggy
From: Lakewood Colorado
Nov 19, 2007

Wasn't impressed, felt like 5.8ish
By Bret
May 13, 2009

Was just there this last weekend and a good chunk of the #3 camalot (or 3 Friend) placement Larry Coats references had fallen off! So now, there's a 2 lobe #3 placement protecting the crux sidepull move(which has also gotten smaller but not much, if any, harder according to friends that did the route).
By talkinrocks
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Starting this climb and geting off the ground definatly felt like the crux of this fun climb. Lieback with both hands on big hold with small polished feet to jug for the right hand and into the finger crack higher up on the left. Definatly kinda scary and unprotected about 6 feet off the deck. The rest of the climb was a cruiser and fun. I'd call it 5.10.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 13, 2010

Bret is correct about the 2 lobe #3 camalot placement. The beginning of this route is a funky boulder problem now (moreso than before) and you'll want a good spot.
By Dan Evans
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 10, 2017

I was about to lead this and backed off due to the start. The boulder problem off of the ground goes around 10c in my opinion, and is extremely committing. The risk wasn't worth it for me, but props to those who onsight this section. Some key holds must've broken off as there are no "jugs" anywhere except for the first move off of the ground which doesn't really get you anywhere. My belayer pointed out a decent side pull up and left from the first chalked up jug, which I used to throw a high left heel hook and rock up. Seemed like the best way to do this without turning it into a V5 boulder problem on bunk holds. Rest of the climb is 5.9 with a few short 10a moves. Mid route there is quite a bit of seemingly insecure blocks that would've sketched me out with gear placements on lead. Overall good route. Will probably go back and lead it at some point, though was happy to work the start on TR first.

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