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Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Double Dragon (right side) 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Ghost, The T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Shooting Star T 
Silhouette T 
Snave Direct, The T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow 

WI4 M5

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original: WI4 M5 [details]
FA: Dave Wolf and Chris Sheridan
Season: Spring
Page Views: 1,057
Submitted By: Chris Sheridan on Aug 23, 2014

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JDub leading in a late season ascent (May 31st).


After two decades of economic stagnation, Shinzo Abe came into office with a plan involving three strategies which he likened to arrows. Each one must be fired successively, and each one must hit its target. Without the final Third Arrow, the whole plan would fail.

The route shares the same first two pitches as Black and White but then stays in the main gully system to finish with a final, climactic WI4 pitch.


Mixed rack with 5-6 screws.

Photos of (Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The line of Shinzo Abe's Third Arrow.
The line of Shinzo Abe's Third Arrow.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Wolf following the last pitch of Shinzo Abe's...
Dave Wolf following the last pitch of Shinzo Abe's...
Rock Climbing Photo: The exciting cave exit on the first pitch of Shinz...
The exciting cave exit on the first pitch of Shinz...

Comments on (Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow Add Comment
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By Ben Collett
Aug 25, 2014

If following the path of least resistance in the gully, one can do an easy mixed traverse from the main gully into the runnel above the cave. To do this, look for the ledge on the right wall of the main gully that is about 20-30 feet higher than the cave feature out right.
By Dougald MacDonald
Oct 20, 2014

The steep final ice pitch is longer and harder than it looks from below. Can be WI4+ to WI5 in autumn conditions.
By Justin Skaare
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 7, 2016

The belay before the final pitch has my vote for most likely to maim. It's a bowling alley that funnels directly into the obvious belay locations. It may be better to belay lower if you can find some cover.

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