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Radio Head
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bends, The T 
Black Velvet T 
Blinders S 
Centrist T 
Crandall Hammer Arete S 
Crosshairs S 
Doom Seam S 
Freezer Burn T,S 
Gap, The S 
Giant Dihedral T 
Gigantor T,S 
Heat Stroke S 
Lady Fingers T,S 
Left of Center S 
Libertine S,TR 
Line-of-Sight S 
Lord of the Flies S 
Man Hands T,S 
Meter Maid T,S 
Mighty Mouse S 
Minimalist T,S 
Mix Up T 
My Left Foot S 
Not Alone T 
Radio One S 
Refiner S 
Right of Center S 
Shimminy Cricket T 
Shiny Face S 
Sun Burn S 
Sunrise Slab S 
Super Nova T,S 
Surefire S 
Tall Boy S,TR 
Tilt S 
Tilt-a-Whirl T,S 
Trail of Tears S 
Two Edged Sword T,S 
White Dwarf T,S 

Shiny Face 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Scott Sills, FFA: J. Haas, August, 2011
Page Views: 884
Submitted By: Jim Hausmann on Aug 16, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: September Wall @ Radiohead Crag - Devil's Head.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This route has a very fun start, lots of long pulls off small sidepulls with imaginary feet, and even a dyno to the crying eyes up high. Good luck.


Start at the leftmost side of the September Wall, sharing the first 30' with Mix-up. Stem the chimney, pull a small roof on jugs, then step right to the business.


14 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

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By Jason Haas
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Super fun! I felt like it could be reachy if you're under 6 foot as there were a few moves that felt near my reach limit. The hands are good, but feet are definitely not.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I would agree with Jason on the reach issue. I am sub-6 foot tall, and a couple of the moves were just out of reach requiring some alternate sequences that didn't feel very 13a'ish (i.e. painful). I would probably focus on other routes at or near the grade at DH before this one, but it is a nice climb nonetheless.
By Jason Haas
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

FWIW, according to Scott, he never redpointed the route, although he did bolt it. I redpointed it in August of 2011, which Scott believed was the first "send" of the route. Even so, great job on Scott's part and real "route credit" goes to him.