||Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Bruce Watts, Glen McHam, Mark Haymond, Dwight Kroll, Bill Hepler 2011|
|Page Views: ||2,554|
|Submitted By: ||J. Albers on Feb 10, 2012|
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Tollhouse Rock with the route 'Shining Pat...
This is very nice addition to Tollhouse with engaging, well-protected climbing. The crux involves enjoyable and steep (by Tollhouse standards) edging on nice reddish colored patina. Because this route is so new, there are still some loose patina edges that will eventually break off and thus a bit of care does need to be exercised when choosing what to stand on. Nevertheless, I have given this route 4 stars because I think that in a few seasons, this route will clean up nicely and warrant the given star grade.
The continuity of the pitches on this climb warrant a bit of comment and I welcome comments by anyone who has additional information. The initial two pitches of this climb are obviously independent and new; this is obvious because the bolts are brand new and the bolt spacing is quite generous (i.e. very well-protected). However, the second pitch ends at the second pitch anchor of Wandering Taoist. At this point, the character of the bolting changes quite substantially. The climbing becomes fairly runout and the age of the bolts seems to indicate that the third pitch predates the initial pitches by quite some time. My guess is that the third pitch was originally an extension of Wandering Taoist; however, the information that I have is written by one of the FA's and thus I have entered the route according to the FA's account (for more information see 'A Climbers Guide to Tollhouse Rock' by Kroll and Slater maximuspress.com/shop/proddeta...
). Pitch One (130 feet; 5.10b, 7 bolts):
Begin by climbing the initial right-facing corner of Elephant Walk (this is really a 15 foot pillar leaning against the wall) and mantle the pillar to the left; some folks may want a medium sized cam to protect this (around a 0.5 Camalot or so). Next spot the first bolt about 6 feet up from the top-center of the pillar. Continue face climbing up past 4 bolts (crux). After clipping a total of 7 bolts, begin trending up and left to the two bolt anchor. Pitch Two (140 feet; 5.7; 8 bolts)
After the thin edging of the first pitch, this pitch will feel like gravy!! Trend gently up and right on well featured rock; the climbing on this pitch is exceptionally fun and the bolts are very reasonably spaced. After 4-5 bolts, begin trending back up and left passing the remaining bolts to a ledge and a bolted anchor (this is anchor is also the top of the second pitch of Wandering Taoist and Elephant Walk). Pitch 3 (140; 5.10a; 5 bolts):
The character of the route changes substantially at this point. Leave the belay and climb straight up 20-25 to clip the first bolt. Follow the bolt line as it trends up and left to a bolted belay station. Variation:
For those folks who want to climb the initial, well-protected pitches but avoid the runout third pitch, you can merge onto the final pitches of Elephant Walk instead of continuing up the proper third pitch. Pitch 4 (200 feet):
Finish on either Tollhouse Traverse (gear needed) or Elephant Walk.
The route shares the first 15 feet with Elephant Walk, so you just need to find the starting pillar to Elephant Walk. (See the topo for more details).
8 slings for clipping the bolts. Some folks may want a few cams for the beginning and the 4th pitch finish on Tollhouse Traverse or Elephant Walk; a single set should be more than sufficient.
By Dwight Kroll
Aug 28, 2012
Your assumptions are correct. A few of us started the third pitch 12 or 13 years back to create a finishing pitch to the outstanding "Wander Taoist". I think it took us three different tries to finally get it in on lead. Last year McHam, Haymond, Watts and I put up the first two pitches with a little more sporty feel (probably because us older gents don't bounce as well as we used to) We had lots of fun putting it up and am glad others are enjoying it as well.
By John Knight
Aug 29, 2012
Nice work on the topo! I look forward to checking it out next time I'm at Tollhouse.
Also, be sure to check out Dwight & Slater's new book. Great topos in there as well. Thanks Guys,
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Feb 25, 2013
This was a great line. First pitch is very well protected. The second 10a pitch is a bit more spaced out but pretty standard as far as slab bolt spacing goes. Super fun route!
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Jul 16, 2013
12 or 13 years??!! Has it been that long? I remember when you put in that pitch Dwight. Think we all thought it was 5.9 after leading it. As I recall, it was moving from the 1st to the 2nd bolt is the crux. All I remember was, "Don't come off or I'll be making a running arc at my belayer!" Committing. I'd still rate it 5.9 though (3rd pitch).
I heard Matt Schutz and Mark did a route right of Elephant Walk and T-House Traverse. But there were rumors that a mega runout route was in that vicinity since a lone 1/4" bolt was spotted left of the Traverse, where the second pitch would be. Any word?
By Ben Horowitz
May 22, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great route! Many thanks to the FA team! 3rd pitch was my favorite... A few small foot slips on the pure friction to get my heartbeat up!
In terms of gear, I would recommend only bringing a few small cams (<.5) I made the mistake of hauling a full set of cams up the route and only used one once.