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Acne Problem S 
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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bill Soule, 2010
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: j-dubs on Jul 8, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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pulling the bulge near the bottom of Shingles


This is a newer route that is not in the Orton guidebook.

Climb up through underclings and smeary feet to a balancy crux around the third bolt. After a small bulge, the route moves up and left, following a vast slab for another 100+ feet. The slab features much easier climbing than the start but offers plenty of opportunities to blow it. When the angle kicks back even more, belay from a pair of old bolts (these are also the top anchors for Apache Acid) or scramble about 30 feet higher and belay from a pair of glue-ins. It took almost all of a 70m rope to reach the glue-ins, so I'm not sure whether you could go that far on a 60m.

A new intermediate anchor has been added, providing the option of climbing the steeper bottom section and skipping about half of the slab.


Start left of Acne Problem below a wall of downward-facing flakes.

To descend, walk off by scrambling up and right until you reach the trail near the summit of Flagstone.


18 bolts to reach the highest anchor (two glue-ins). Two lower anchors are also available.

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