REI Community
Brown's Ridge (aka "Whiteface")
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Browns Corner T 
Edge, The T 
Harvest Moon T 
Honeymoon S 
Night Moves T 
O-Town Browns  T 
Polish the Monkey (mid-cliff START)  T 
Seven Dwarfs, The S 
Shine Your Helmet T 
Somebody's Got to Do It T 

Shine Your Helmet 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A1 [details]
FA: Jim Graham & John Marshall July 1985
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jun 26, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: RW nears the top of P1 of "Shine Your Helmet&...

Description 

The "bolt ladder" goes free at about 5.10 (FFA Brad White ?)

The first ascentionists did the route as a 2 pitch route, combining what is given as P1 and P2 here, and then taking a line more to the right on the upper slab.

START- At the Right-facing corner/crack system about 15 ft right of the well-scrubbed climb "The Edge"

P1 - Climb the corner/crack system to the double bolt anchor. 50-60 ft 5.6 If you're not happy soloing 5.6 jam (or layback) cracks take along one or two size 4 Camalot(s).

P2 - Make free moves to the bolt ladder (now 3/8 inch SS) and up this to a dbl bolt anchor. 50+/- ft 5.7 A-1 or 5.10.

P3 - The FA seems to have gone more right to finish the climb, but the obvious line is to climb up the slab, trending sligtly left and passing two 3/8 inch SS bolts, to the P2 belay of The Edge. 110-115 ft 5.3-5.4

P4 - Either up P3 of The Edge (80 ft 5.5 - 5.6) or up right to finish more in the area of the FA.

Descent - Rap The Edge with a single 70m rope, or a 60m with tag line for the middle rap.

Protection 

Medium to large ( #4 Camalot-sized) for P1, then draws.


Comments on Shine Your Helmet Add Comment
Show which comments
By chinos
Sep 30, 2017

A great climb located on the left side of the main face that offers a variety of techniques on quality rock. There are several variations to the climb and all of them are good.
P1: Scramble up the mungy start to a wide crack in a groove. Jam and layback up the crack to a stance on a sloping ledge that now has a bolt anchor. (The original route continued to the second anchor). Climb the slightly right leaning arch past the bolt ladder. Continue straight up to good gear and a flake. Follow a dyke left to a bolted ring anchor. 100’ 5.7 A1 or 5.10b
P2: Climb straight up off the anchor to a bolt. Run it out on good features to a foot ledge with a second bolt. Finish straight up to a bolted ring anchor at the tree ledge that is shared with The Edge. 110’ 5.5

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About