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Shine On You Crazy Diamond 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matt Cornell, Dylan Thomas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: Matt Cornell on Sep 8, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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The crux pitch.

Description 

Follows cracks, flakes, and corners up to the large ramp below the spotted red Diamond Wall. Takes the prominent wide looking crack up the left side the vertical face and onto the summit. Crux is sustained but you can find good gear in flared pods that open up in the crack and create good holds. Beware of friable exfoliating rock and hollow flakes, if you can get over the rock quality the climbing is quite fun!

Location 

Meanders up Ruby Wall to the base of the splitter looking crack on the red headwall. The start is located just left of a large chimney system.

Protection 

double rack from 0.1 to a #3. We did not take a #4 but thought it could have been useful. All gear anchors. No fixed gear.


Photos of Shine On You Crazy Diamond Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:  The start of the route is the nice looking flake ...
The start of the route is the nice looking flake ...
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Ruby Wall. Shine On You Crazy Diamond is shown.
BETA PHOTO: Ruby Wall. Shine On You Crazy Diamond is shown.
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch.
Second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Poorly hand drawn topo
BETA PHOTO: Poorly hand drawn topo

Comments on Shine On You Crazy Diamond Add Comment
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By Matt Carroll
Sep 23, 2016

Nice work dudes! route looks awesome

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