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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eli Helmuth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 748
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on May 17, 2006

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Following the first lead of Shinbuster.

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


This route is a mostly thin crack starting 20' left of the route "Left Out" on the buttress just west and across the gully from "The Man who Loved Cat Dancing".


The start is a short, right-facing dihedral which begins at a small overlap at knee level- miss the first move and you may understand the route name. Step left at the end of the thin crack to the right-facing corner which leads to the fixed anchor for both this route and Left Out.


Two bolts protect the opening sequence and the remainder of the pitch is protected by small cams and nuts.

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By david goldstein
Jun 17, 2007

Looking at it from below, one forms the impression that the business will be the slabbing past the two bolts and the runout past the second to the crack. The full erroneousness of this impression is brought home the entire way up the crack which is continously challenging and a constant struggle for decent gear. Even though that for a new Lumpy Climb, this is quite clean, there is still enough lichen in the crack to obscure some of the placements. Nonetheless, a pretty good pitch for fans of the Lumpy slab crack genre.

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