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Shimminy Cricket 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott Sills
Page Views: 1,697
Submitted By: kevin fox on Aug 31, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: September Wall @ Radiohead Crag - Devil's Head.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This route is just to the right of Shiny Face. It starts with 4 bolts, and as you head up, you will use a mix of cams for protection.


It is to the right of Shiny Face.


Four bolts at the start protect the beginning. We used a mix of cams from blue Alien all the way up to #4 Camalot. The 2 bolt anchor is on the left not on the right as per guidebook.

Photos of Shimminy Cricket Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left climber is on Shimminy, right climber is on R...
Left climber is on Shimminy, right climber is on R...
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at the route.
A look at the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda at the anchor of Shimminy Cricket.
Brenda at the anchor of Shimminy Cricket.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brenda on Shimminy Cricket.
Brenda on Shimminy Cricket.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux.
At the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway up above the bolts.
Halfway up above the bolts.

Comments on Shimminy Cricket Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 1, 2012

I thought the bolted part of this climb was the most difficult, but if your crack climbing skills are lacking, you might feel the crux is above the bolts.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a fun route that needs to be climbed more to get rid of some of the lichen on the rock and dirt in the cracks. I thought there were two cruxes -- one down low at about the third bolt which is mostly just an awkward, off-balance move. The second is up high about 15 feet below the anchors where there's not much for the feet. I placed all sizes of cams from a 00 Metolius to a #4 Camalot, but mostly the cracks took between 0.75 and #2 cams. Fun route -- enjoy!
By Jim Brink
May 28, 2013

I loved this route! Face climbing, crack climbing, bulges, a roof, and a traverse with an amazing hidden hold. Anchors are around the roof/corner up left and out of sight. Excellent pro with nuts from 1/4" to 1" and a few cams.
By Alex Vidal
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2014

A really fun pitch. I am not sure why there are bolts, but might as well use them if they are there. Seemed like there were protection opportunities nearby in all cases (though perhaps the exfoliating rock is the reasoning?). The move around the second bolt seemed like the crux, but I saw a good #2 placement to the right of the bolt and another smaller cam placement above the bolt near the "solution" hold.
By Matt Pierce
From: Denver, CO
Sep 20, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought this was a tough lead - 4 bolts to a fun crack with face holds on your right - a tough left traverse near the top - we used gear from small X4 and 0.4 C4 to protect the top to a full #4 C4 at the crack - fun!
By Jim Hausmann
From: Richmond, TX
Sep 28, 2015

FA: Scott Sills.
By plantmandan
From: Brighton, CO
May 28, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very nice route, found it to be sustained. It was quite wet today. The finish is committing, and small gear placements are there at the top but not obvious.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Jun 5, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Do this climb. Agree with gear recommendations and 9+ rating in comments. This pitch packs a lot of fun into 100 feet of vertical.

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