|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||R. Ingraham, R. Hahn, H. Fisher|
|Submitted By:||Aaron Hobson on Feb 11, 2008|
|Comments on Shillelagh||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Oct 22, 2012
Climbed this today with franciscov. It's a great route. Some comments ...
P1: The tree at the end of this pitch is small and offers a kind of hanging belay (with supplemental gear).
P2's It is possible to go left from the little tree on P1 up a grassy corner. It is probably around 5.9. Leave the 4" piece and bring a 5" instead if going this way.
P3: If you put the belay as high as practical in the treed vegetation, a 60 meter rope will just reach to the West Ridge on P4 with care about rope drag.
P4: Jackson's "Rock Climbing NM" guide gives more detail if unsure about route finding skills or expecting to be short on time.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Nov 21, 2015
|5 miles and 3,000 feet of elevation on the approach. It took us 4 hours, as both of us were new to the area. Lots of bushwhacking through prickers, a good amount of wet slab. Actually quite dangerous unless we really just fucked up and picked an unfavorable path. Climbing was stellar, but would want to go back with a local next time.|
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Nov 22, 2015
|Sounds like the description of the approach we took, Alex.|
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 18, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I don't know how Alex approached the route, but 5 miles seems off to me based on how I did it and the approach was the most straightforward of the various Organ routes I have done.
Here's some beta that might help future parties. Take the Modoc Road in as far as your car will allow (don't even think about taking a sedan, you need clearance and pretty good suspension), then follow the road for a long ways, swing out wider to the right when the road forks. The Tooth and the Wedge will be very obvious the whole way.
When you get to the base of the Tooth (and there's a trail with no bushwhacking involved) head around the formation to the left and up into a gully. To avoid bushwhacking stay right on the rock on the right side of the gully. Most of the bushes can be avoided by easy class 3/4 scrambling. Continue up until you see the base of the route.
For the rappel there is a very easy way off to the SE from the summit of the Wedge (pointing towards Sugarloaf) that takes a bit of looking to find but there's plenty of tat to give it away. Just head a bit down the ridge until you see it. One 60m rappel gets you into a gully. Scramble down the gully until you see some more tat on a tree to get down a short and steep step that is just long and steep enough to warrant rapping. Scramble the rest of the way down and then up the notch. Super short walk back to the packs.
About the route: it's very dirty. The opening chimney pitches were clean, but the slab leading up to the 4 crux roofs was choked with fresh soil. I had to do a fair amount of cleaning on lead to get pro/handholds. I pulled out quite a few tufts of grass stuff on my way up as well. The roofs themselves were incredibly fun, and the final pitch leading from the topout on the ridge to the summit was steep, exposed, and very memorable.
The fourth roof is the crux but isn't harder than 5.9/5.9+. High foot in the crack wins the day.
I get the impression that this route is seldom done, so bring extra webbing to replace or reinforce what's already there.