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Shield 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Apr 24, 2014

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Matt R. leads Sword. K. Chen on belay.

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a classic thin test-piece high above the surf. Originally done on gear, then retroblted in the 90's, it has been restored to its former glory.

Approach the route via Moby Dick or any other combination of cracks below the Whale's Head. Instead of mounting the head itself, belay from the obvious grassy platform.

Move up some blocky stone to an awkward sidestep onto a small ledge below a black streak. It's more overhanging than it looks. Move quickly to avoid a pump, getting your fingers in the crack where you can and using crucial crimps on the face. Shake out when you reach the bomber horizontals, then fire into the stellar diagonal hand crack. The angle kicks back a little more, but the jams are bomber. Big ol' jugs await you at the chute up to the topout ledge.

Location 

Whale's Head. The black streak.

Protection 

Gear to 1.5" and micro-nuts!
Titanium anchor (2016)


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