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Diamond Head
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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bret Ruckman, Bill Gibson, and Marco Cornacchione, '88-'89
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts, 2 Anchor Pins, 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 1,062
Submitted By: Joseph Crotty on Jan 18, 2010

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Upper half of P1. You can just make out the two bo...

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  • Description 

    This climb starts from almost dead center of the western aspect of Diamond Head.

    P1 - Locate a nearly vertical wall that tilts into a slab at about 40' with two bolts in the first 30'. There is a short left facing corner about 15' up at the first bolt(11a). Two more bolts appear where the wall steepens at a 'V'. Grapple with this power crux (.12a) and merge into a corner that can be taken directly up to the anchor or if easier ground is desired trend left then back right to the anchor, bolt and pin, next to a large tree.

    P2 - Climb the low angle left facing corner directly overhead (.10a) and then clip a bolt out right. Start moving up and right aiming for another bolt and eventually at the end of the spicy 35' traverse a fixed pin at the base of the incredible head wall seam. Put on your tricky pro A-game cap and get ready to do some intricate crack/face combination climbing. No one move feels desperate but slowly and surely the burn builds as eventually you must confront the age old question, "to send must there be less pro?" Locate the obvious summit anchor - bolt and pin.


    Climb starts from almost dead center of the western aspect of Diamond Head. Locate a nearly vertical wall that tilts into a slab about 40' up with two bolts in the first 30'. From the top of P1 you can do a 90' rap to the ground. From the top of P2, summit Diamond Head, do a 95' rap to the top of P1.


    SR with double set of RPs and triple micro cams.

    Photos of Shibumi Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: P2.
    Rock Climbing Photo: All of P2 except for the opening, shallow, left-fa...
    All of P2 except for the opening, shallow, left-fa...

    Comments on Shibumi Add Comment
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    By Joseph Crotty
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jan 18, 2010

    The head wall pitch is not to be missed. Totally unique to Eldo. Its uncelebrated status hinges on its isolated location. However, getting to the head wall seam is heady. Even on follow, I was freaked out for about 30 seconds as all manner of choss must be negotiated. Props to Scott Bennett for the bold lead. I look forward to another bout with this classic.

    Note both P1 and P2 anchors could use some TLC. Sorry I didn't take any photos. They work well enough, but updates would be nice. P1: I would pull the pin and go with a vertical modern two bolt setup. P2: pull the pin and bolt (i.e., patch hole) then go down about 6' with a nice beefy setup to eliminate the rope drag.
    By Scott Bennett
    Jan 19, 2010
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Placing gear on the 2nd pitch adds loads to the difficulty. Bring your trad honemaster skills and bunch of thin gear.
    By WAG
    Sep 21, 2011

    This route was a fun (and frustrating) project when we worked on it IN 1988. It took more than a year to link it all together. Sort of a team effort with Bret Ruckman figuring out the crux on pitch one. Pitch two involved multiple hair-raising attempts on the headwall fingertip crack. The small wires placements add complexity to the hand/feet sequences.
    At one point, I challenged Derek Hersey to go up and try it since he seemed like the only person, at the time, who would have a lot of fun figuring it out. Not sure if he ever took me up on it, but he surely had the cajones and skills to pull off an onsight.

    If you want to get away to a remote spot with awe inspiring views, Diamond Head is the place. I figure it is the highest elevation rock climb in greater Eldorado. Kudos to all who have taken the journey to SHIBUMI to climb!

    Bill Gibson

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