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Shey Rock
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L to R R to L Alpha
9 TR 
2ABC S,TR 
Baby Thali TR 
Broken Foot S,TR 
E.T. B.T.  S,TR 
Fire, The S,TR 
Frying Pan, The S,TR 
Hiram Crack S,TR 
Julley S,TR 
Leh'd Back S 
Little Chimney  S,TR 
Push, Pull, Pray S,TR 
Raisin and the Ant T 
Shey Direct T 
Snap, Crackle, Pop Left S,TR 
Snap, Crackle, Pop Right S,TR 
Taley S 
Upside Down Backwards 5 S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Shey Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2 PG13 [details]
FA: Jeremy Higle Jonathan Parker
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Jeremy Higle on Apr 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Approaching the anchors of the third pitch.

Description 

UPDATE 2013 - Anchors and run-outs are now bolted to make it tourist friendly. This line was the most obvious crack system up the middle of the face. No bolts at all on this ground up trad line. The climbing gets harder with each pitch. The crux is the last pitch which pulls over a 5 foot roof. The belay is bomber cams but I had to hammer a couple of pins to pull the roof. It may be 5.11 range but there is no clean pro for the first 25 feet and a fall would be directly on the belay anchor. The crack in the final pitch like all unclimbed routes is full of dirt and patches of grass. If cleaned it will go free.

Location 

Use you imagination for the first moderate pitch up to where the main crack starts. Raisin and the Ant's start is just up the hill. There are lots of variations and I don't think my 2nd ascent of Raisin was exactly like the FA by Calvin. That's sort of the fun of the area. It is real, old school trad. But be careful the hospital in Leh is a dump so you have to get a flight to delhi if you get hurt.

Protection 

UPDATE 2013 Anchors bolted for four 30m pitches so you can rap the same line back down. Full rack. The rap line is the same as "Raisen and the Ant" Walk (with belay) around to the back of the big summit boulder. There will be some slings threaded to rap down to the bolts. 30m rap down the gully will get you down to a ramp where you can walk to the only two bolts and then rap down into a small gully to walk the rest of the way down.


Photos of Shey Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is further up and you can see the entrance in...
BETA PHOTO: This is further up and you can see the entrance in...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shows the anchors and basic layout of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Shows the anchors and basic layout of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: This pic is on the second pitch of the FA.  The li...
BETA PHOTO: This pic is on the second pitch of the FA. The li...

Comments on Shey Direct Add Comment
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By Jim Meyer
Jul 16, 2013

The first pitch is now bolted. I believe this as an add on and not a pitch that Jeremy did on the FA. It's super easy (5.7) and a nice link up. The belay anchor on the second pitch (considering the aforementioned pitch) is now bolted. GREAT route!

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