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3. The Big Wall
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Adventure Punks T 
Arete, The T 
Chenoo T 
Graceful Tiers T 
Happy Ending T 
It's a Good Day to Die T 
Layback Route T 
Locals Only T,S 
Nevermind The Bollocks T 
P.I. Dreams T,S 
Porno Poison Ivy 
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Riptide T 
She's Out of Reach T 
Steve Garvey Memorial Route T 
Tree Hugger T 
Wet Lichen Dreams T 

She's Out of Reach 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Magness 4/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 991
Submitted By: chris magness on Jun 23, 2012

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Chris on an early attempt...

Description 

An excellent climb with great variety.

Look for a little knoll with a tree just past The Arete (The Arete is one pitch up) and two bolts leading to a 3' roof with a third bolt just above it.

Use a flake to gain the first bolt at 15' and a stance. One more sequence gains the second bolt. Make a hard 5.10 face move past the second bolt to a slopey undercling (typically wet) at the third bolt. Step right to a good hold and the crux.

A big move (crux) gains a horizontal break (has been done dynamically and statically). Step up and right to a short, vertical crack. Follow this to an easy but committing roof. A few more face moves lead to a pinch with a thread anchor.

Stop here or..

She's Way Out of Reach.... 5.10 A0 or 5.12+, FFA Jon Baldasarre 5/14

Continue up the steep face passing one more bolt (currently A0) and a horizontal. Step right to a flake and stand up to a two bolt anchor. The upper face is 5.10 if you pull on the bolt and is worth the effort -- or -- huck balls!!! Nice work Baldy! Save a .4 for the horizontal. Lower or rap off with a 60, anything shorter and you're hosed.

NOTE: To help reduce drag, clip the third bolt with an extendable draw but leave it short until you're at the stance after the big move. You can reach down and extend it from here.

Location 

At the far left end of the Right Wall, below The Arête and just right of the Good Day to Die scary looking roof flake. Left of Happy Ending and Graceful Tiers which climb the same roof system.. Really between the central wall and the right wall.

Protection 

4 B's, camalots to a #3 including small stuff. Bring extendable draws.


Comments on She's Out of Reach Add Comment
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By Jason Denver
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I belayed Jonathan Baldassare up the extension finish last night, 5/6/14 for the probable ffa. It was amazing to see him stick the dyno move.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 8, 2014

GO BALDY!!!!
By chris magness
May 9, 2014

Sweet dude!! Great send, that's a freakin' huge dyno!

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