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Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

Sherlocked 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 99
Submitted By: Rah Herrington on Apr 29, 2013

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Rah H. on TR, attempting crux. Resolved to use a d...

Description 

This is a very tricky, crimpy face climb with the crux being right at the first large, sloped crack/ledge and having to get up onto that. There is a nice 3-fingered undercling crimp at this area that can provide some fun in getting up.
Aside from the first large crack and a second, less sloped one about 7ft after it, there are mostly scattered crimps.
Be careful not to go into the dihedral on the left or the obvious crack on the right. There is a quartzite knob on the left, near the crux, that is part of the dihedral route, not part of this route.

Location 

To the right of Girls Named Sue & Dirty Little Secret there is a slightly moss covered face climb.
In the "Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake" book it is right in-between an unnamed 5.9 route that moves up a dihedral (marked as #22 for the area) and 2 unnamed 5.7/5.8 crack climbs (marked as #23-24 for the area). If you don't have this guide it is about 5-7ft left of Ptooey.
It can be topped out and you can walk back down or you can rappel back down as well.

Protection 

Gear used here is going to run small except for the 2 large cracks. A couple of medium-large cams for the cracks would work nicely and then small nuts for the few thin cracks you can find. Gear is SUPER sparse on this route, as there aren't many spots to place it. You could place your first one in a small crack running on the left, before having to come more center as this crack eventually runs into the dihedral route.
TRing is an option too. There's plenty of spots to place an anchor at the top, like trees, so you could top out and walk back down or rappel back down too.


Photos of Sherlocked Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rah H. TRing at the beginning of Sherlocked.
Rah H. TRing at the beginning of Sherlocked.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rah H. on TR, nearing the crux.
Rah H. on TR, nearing the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Sherlocked. Dihedral route is on the le...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Sherlocked. Dihedral route is on the le...

Comments on Sherlocked Add Comment
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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 29, 2013

I remember TR'ing this in the summer of 2009. We called it "Indiana Pwns" and rated it 5.9+. Didn't lead it though. OK climb.
By Rah Herrington
Apr 29, 2013

I'm not sure I would say 5.9+ but I could see a lower 5.10 maybe, though it would certainly be harder for a shorter person. The crimps were a bit too small and spread out to be lower than 5.10.
But yeah, even I chose not to lead it. The gear would have been too sparse and all after the harder moves, so not for me. :P
I really liked it. The crux was probably my favorite part.
By Tradiban
May 1, 2013

There's been some pontificating behind the scenes on weather or not this is a "new" route. For the purposes of MP it is because it hasn't been posted yet, however it has been TR'd before and surely named but I think "Sherlocked" is pretty good so unless Andy objects (he wouldn't) I would leave that.
For clarity regarding DL on MP I would remove the "R" rating until someone actually leads it, that allows strictly TR routes to be distinguished from lead/TR routes.
In addition my policy has always been to put a FA as "Old School" for just about any route at DL as almost literally every inch of rock has been TR'd. Lead is a different story but I don't think I have personally claimed a lead FA either because the "Old School" has probably done it anyway, AND in better style!
Also, when someone posts that they have done it already, it's not to diminish anyone's accomplishment, it's to offer some history on the route and the area.
I don't know if the controversy is simply a certain admin stirring the pot or if Rah or Sarah are actually offended that someone posted they had already done it but I can tell you the MP glitterati appreciates all additions to a mighty fine and expanding database, especially for Devils Lake.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 3, 2013

I don't care what it's called. Sherlocked sounds better than Indiana Pwns. I was offering history, as Rhoads stated, not diminishing anyone's efforts on climbing this line.
By Rah Herrington
May 12, 2013

Ah yeah I can remove the R. That was just a suggestion by one of our party and since I'm new on MP I just went with it.
I was secretly hoping that no one had climbed it but it is DL and well..yeah that's just not ever possible. I'm in Hoofer's with Doug H, one of the admins, so he gave me some pointers and just said to put Unknown on the FA and that putting it up on MP was still a good idea so that others could see it too. :)

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