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Sheriff's Tariff 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Wright, 1997
Page Views: 3,099
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001  with updates from JFM

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  • Description 

    This is, IMO, the best route at Sherwood Forest. It isn't particularly sustained, but the roof jugs will get you psyched for the last 20 feet. Climbs a vertical face to a small (3 or 4 foot) roof (there are apparently some kind of rules about which way you go up the roof to make it harder/easier, but it seemed the same both ways to me). Not as hard as it looks by any stretch of the imagination. I think Rossiter rated it 11d or something, which is just ridiculous (like most of the Sherwood Forest ratings). Do it!

    Unlike the neighbors to the right, the hangers are rust-colored coldshuts.


    8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

    Photos of Sheriff's Tariff Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: TBLS (R) and Men in Tights (L).
    BETA PHOTO: TBLS (R) and Men in Tights (L).
    Rock Climbing Photo: Colin at the no hands rest before the roof on Sher...
    Colin at the no hands rest before the roof on Sher...
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the big holds at the roof.
    On the big holds at the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the dike.
    At the dike.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Wright getting ready to pull the roof on Sher...
    Bill Wright getting ready to pull the roof on Sher...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Wright below the roof on Sheriff's Tariff at ...
    Bill Wright below the roof on Sheriff's Tariff at ...

    Comments on Sheriff's Tariff Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Aron Quiter
    From: Oakland, CA
    Sep 6, 2002

    I think it's supposed to be 5.11d if you go over the roof and head left. It's not .11a, but it's not .11d either. Probably (by canyon ratings) an .11c... If you head right over the roof, it's about .11a.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 8, 2002
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I don't know that there are any rules about which way to go, but the Left is the better line.

    Not bad for a short route. It gives the chance to do some overhang without too stout of a grade or getting too pumped. If taking into account the critter poop that was on it this summer you'd subtract one of the two stars though.

    5.10b right or 5.11a left -by modern sport standards. If comparing to a route like Gates Of Eden or Left Wing, then the route goes 5.9 right or 5.10a/b left, but let's face it, those are hard at the grade.
    By TBD
    Aug 25, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    The holds tend to push you to the right towards Tuckered and Fried, for the first half of the route. The moves are much easier the farther right you go, including at the roof. Following or going left of the bolt line makes this route significantly harder (11d seems reasonable to me). Otherwise the line of least resistance is 11-.
    By desbien
    From: seattle,wa
    Jul 23, 2007

    Tony- what do think of this line relative to Skippin' Stones in CCC? That can of worms aside, this is a fun line with really one big move to gain the roof. I think this was 11a- I can't flash 11d.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 2, 2008
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    My roof beta: Left sidepull (there are three obvious sidepulls and I only used the middle one) while right is on a "ball" like right hand side pull. Left foot up on a ledge just below the huge ledge...right heel toe hook deep in the ledge. Then static right hand reach up to the very beginning of the jugs. Move the right hand progressively back left to better jugs...bring the feet up and the left hand. Clip. Then establish your feet high and move as far right as you can on the jugs. Throw right to a horn. One more pull in and move your feet up move and it is over.

    If that isn't specific enough....
    By Mitch Stubbs
    From: Boulder
    Jun 17, 2017

    I found this route to be easier than No Direction Home on the Witches Tower, even with going left, and pulling through the roof with my left on the pinch. 11a is sandbagged compared to a typical Boco grade, but it's an honest one.
    By Dennis Collinson
    From: San Francisco, California
    Jul 17, 2017
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I think the new guidebook rating of 11c is correct. Saying this is 11- is a classic sandbag.

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