All Locations >
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Powell River
> Eldred Valley
> Amon Gwareth
Shenanigans
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Zoe Manson, Evan Guilbault, Evan Lockhart, Max merkin |
Page Views: | 1,519 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | EJG on Aug 29, 2016 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Logging Roads - Restricted Access
Details
Logging road access is before 5am and after 6pm during the week. Weekends and statutory holidays have 24 hour access. If you are unsure about the access, ask before you go.
Shenanigans
An obscure classic tucked on the north facing slopes beneath Slide Mtn. Shenanigans is the perfect August adventure during a heat wave for those looking for a medium sized Eldredian adventure that isn't all slabineering on south facing black granite!
Shenanigans follows a direct line of 5.8/9 corners & cracks for 200m. The "watch tower" esque position over looking the Eldred Valley is worth the effort alone. The rock is superb, the veg is sparse, the gear great, and the line is flowy & direct.
Note: There are no anchor or rap stations on this climb as of 2019.
Approach: Walk along the far left base of Amon Gwareth. Before things get bushy locate the "obvious" right-facing corner system. Shenanigans begins up the furthest left "nice" corner system (there are multiple corners...).
Pitch 1: Head up the slabby ramp following an awkward right-facing corner system. 5.8 50m
Pitch 2: Continue straight up the beautiful corner crack. 5.7 40m
Pitch 3: Continue straight off the belay into the branches. Weave above the long cedar branches and emerge on a nice ledge system. This pitch is the only blemish of route. 5.7 J2 30m
Pitch 4: Traverse rightwards towards a "clean enough" flake. The rock improves and cleans up nicely from here on. 5.6 20m
Pitch 5: Climb above the clean flake into a gorgeous widening splitter. Fun jam work! Enjoy the seat halfway. 5.9 50m
Pitch 6: Finish up a fun low angle layback flake. The flake spits you on to an awesome airy (5.7) slab where the wall finally spills beneath you for the final 20m of the climb. No bush finish, just clean slab to soft heather. 5.8 50m
Descent: Walk W on the ridges towards Slide for approximately 30mins. A small chute on the right shoots you back into the boulders. From the boulders it is about 40mins-1hour back to the boulder bivy beneath Amon Gwareth.
Shenanigans follows a direct line of 5.8/9 corners & cracks for 200m. The "watch tower" esque position over looking the Eldred Valley is worth the effort alone. The rock is superb, the veg is sparse, the gear great, and the line is flowy & direct.
Note: There are no anchor or rap stations on this climb as of 2019.
Approach: Walk along the far left base of Amon Gwareth. Before things get bushy locate the "obvious" right-facing corner system. Shenanigans begins up the furthest left "nice" corner system (there are multiple corners...).
Pitch 1: Head up the slabby ramp following an awkward right-facing corner system. 5.8 50m
Pitch 2: Continue straight up the beautiful corner crack. 5.7 40m
Pitch 3: Continue straight off the belay into the branches. Weave above the long cedar branches and emerge on a nice ledge system. This pitch is the only blemish of route. 5.7 J2 30m
Pitch 4: Traverse rightwards towards a "clean enough" flake. The rock improves and cleans up nicely from here on. 5.6 20m
Pitch 5: Climb above the clean flake into a gorgeous widening splitter. Fun jam work! Enjoy the seat halfway. 5.9 50m
Pitch 6: Finish up a fun low angle layback flake. The flake spits you on to an awesome airy (5.7) slab where the wall finally spills beneath you for the final 20m of the climb. No bush finish, just clean slab to soft heather. 5.8 50m
Descent: Walk W on the ridges towards Slide for approximately 30mins. A small chute on the right shoots you back into the boulders. From the boulders it is about 40mins-1hour back to the boulder bivy beneath Amon Gwareth.
Eldred River Valley
Drive the Goat Main to 36 mile at the main junction go left down the Dianne Main. Cross the bridge over the Eldred, drive up the road for 5-10mins to where the bridge is pulled out. There is a creek bed here that you walk up for a very short time (1 minute tops), locate the red flagger cutting into the forest. A steep, but followable trail cuts straight uphill from passed an overgrown road, back into the forest for 20-30 minutes until you hit the atrocious logging cut-block. Navigate through the hell slash for about 20mins (the crux of the entire trip) until you are back in the beautiful old-growth forests. An easier to locate trail (well beat in) follows the right side of the creek until you are at the bottom of the massive boulderfield. A long 30minutes up the boulder field brings you the base of Amon Gwareth, a couple massive boulder bivys and a year-round stream.
1 Comment