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7-Melchsee
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(to be deleted) TR 
Central - Alcove TR 
Central - Right Corner TR 
Shelves - Wander Left TR 
Shelves - Wander Right TR 
Trail Slab - Face Left S,TR 
Trail Slab - Face Right  TR 
Trail Slab - Left Corner TR 
Trail Slab - Right Corner TR 
Trail Slab - Right Gully TR 

Shelves - Wander Right 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 24
Submitted By: kenr on Aug 7, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Melchsee: Trail Slab + Shelves from NE G. Right G...

Description 

Three interesting sequences each with a different rock style.

Up the right side crack on right side of face of detached flake.
Step left, then up along left side of bushes, and on straight up into dihedral. Next traverse Right about six feet to below crack.
Up the crack and diagonal right, finish straight up to right side off cliff-top bush.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

Twelve-feet-high detached flake which is about twenty feet uphill right from where main access trail meets cliff.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection 

Two-bolt top anchor (no connect, no lower-off), but no intermediate bolts for leading or directional TR (as of 2017).
. . (Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless; but due to a mistake in purchasing, the lower hanger is Plated-Steel - until it gets replaced. Bolt and hangers installed August 2017).

Top-Roping: Perhaps could use trees at the top of the cliff for protection for the group leader to use rope to get down to top anchor.
warning: Lots of loose rock on slope between trees and top of continuous rock as of 2017, so clean this (with no one anywhere near underneath) before doing any top-roping.

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Melchsee sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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