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A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bulge, The TR 
Camel's Hump T,TR 
Chimney T 
City Limits T,TR 
Crackpot T,TR 
Dead Dog T,TR 
Devils Backbone T,S 
Dim View T 
Double Barrel T,TR 
Drunkards Crack T 
Easy Crack T 
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test T,TR 
Full Moon Foot Dance 
George's Direct T 
Georges Nose T,TR 
Graves T,TR 
Gully, The TR 
Hip Pocket TR 
Jill's T,TR 
Joe's Variation T,TR 
Makanda Layback T,S 
Open Book  T,TR 
Open Book Direct T,TR 
Poison Ivy Center T 
Poison Ivy Right T 
Rappellers' Demise T,TR 
Return to Forever "Classic" 
Shotgun T,TR 
Standing On Air T,TR 
Tempura Tour T 
Tempura Tour Complete T 
Thackery's Wackery 

A. Shelter 1 Bluff Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.62644, -89.20137 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,129
Administrators: Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Drew McWilson on Nov 27, 2009
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Annual SIUC Climbing Club outing to Shelter 1



Getting There 

just in the park gate. the first big cliff that you see with the shelter.


The best guide for Giant City S.P. currently is Eric Ulner's book Vertical Heartland. His guide covers the main climbing routes of the park and primarily focuses on the classics of Shelter 1. Pick up your copy today at Shawnee Trails located in Carbondale Illinois.

Climbing Season

For the Giant City State Park area.

Weather station 1.8 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for A. Shelter 1 Bluff:
Drunkards Crack   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Easy Crack   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad   
The Gully   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     TR   
Chimney   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad   
Camel's Hump   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Makanda Layback   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, Sport, 55'   
Tempura Tour   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Featured Route For A. Shelter 1 Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta

Makanda Layback 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Illinois : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff
Pull on small jugs to enter the gully crack, layback to the right and pull moves to eventually reach up left to nice horizontal edges, from there proceed to climb to the safety bolt "place a nut in the crack to the right to beef up the anchor point", then continue to the top through a rather blank section eventually meeting the last face, angle up and left eventually toping out and reaching the anchor. Fairly Committing Lead......[more]   Browse More Classics in Illinois

Photos of A. Shelter 1 Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic Giant City Routes
BETA PHOTO: Classic Giant City Routes
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful Shelter 1 Bluff in mid fall
The beautiful Shelter 1 Bluff in mid fall
Rock Climbing Photo: gully
Rock Climbing Photo: the gully
the gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave: here are the routes as I recall them
BETA PHOTO: Dave: here are the routes as I recall them
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave: here are the routes as I recall them
Dave: here are the routes as I recall them
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave: here are the routes as I recall them
BETA PHOTO: Dave: here are the routes as I recall them

Comments on A. Shelter 1 Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Healyje
From: PDX
Sep 20, 2016
It should be noted that almost none of these routes were originally ever led, nor did we ever have any intention or desire to lead them as we had plenty of other rock elsewhere for that purpose. A couple of easy ones were led, but the rest that saw leads were more one-time 'exhibition' leads and could just have easily been free solos at the time. In fact, the cliff originally saw way more free solos than gear leads. The challenge of leading these routes came way after the fact by decades and to some extent still remain more a high-end novelty.

David Hug, the administrator here, has done a lot of these bold new leads and has amended the ratings here to reflect that. But please don't let the r/x ratings here dissuade you from climbing these routes - just TR them as they were originally done. In the process you may find that might not be as easy as your typical over-hung sport route as on TR you're either climbing or flying - there's no hanging to sort out the details.

It should also be noted that all these Giant City routes represent the well-spring of the skills that went on to develop Drapers and Jackson Falls - if you ever get curious about where the developers of those areas cut their teeth then this is the place to come.

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