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Shelob's Lair 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Alvino Pino and Eric VanDoren (solo), bolts added by Bernard Gillett and John Carey, 2003
Page Views: 365
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jan 27, 2011

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This is a fun chimney protected by three bolts. Get yourself to the proper chimney (see below). Shimmy to the right to get to the first bolt and head straight up.


See the photo for the approach. It's to the right of a good-looking hand- and fist-crack (the route Little Bighorn). Walk into the obvious chimney. After about ten or fifteen feet, there will be a chimney to the right where you'll see the route with its three bolts.


Quickdraws for the bolts. A #0.5 Camalot or equivalent protects the exit move from the chimney. There is no anchor at the top. We built a belay about thirty feet to the left with large cams (#3 and #4 Camalots).

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