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Pratt's Crack / Dihedrals Area
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Eclipsed S 
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Sheila T 


YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Fischer and Jay Jensen, 1971
Page Views: 18,225
Submitted By: Bruce Willey on May 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (155)
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Getting a bit of a rest. Sort of. Well, not real...


A must-do classic right around the corner from Pratt's Crack. Follow a huge, clean-cut dihedral, jamming (hands) all the way up to a chimney move or two, then step right on a small ledge to the anchors.


Pratt's Crack Area, on the right side.


Up to 3". Need two ropes for rap.

Photos of Sheila Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber: Jon Trask    Photo: Steve Cox
Climber: Jon Trask Photo: Steve Cox
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleaning a piece at the start of the layback.
Cleaning a piece at the start of the layback.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting ready for crux #1.
Getting ready for crux #1.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the start.
View from the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: The awesomeness continues.
The awesomeness continues.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes, this is a rest.  Desperate times call for des...
Yes, this is a rest. Desperate times call for des...
Rock Climbing Photo: Strenuous liebacking through crux #2.
Strenuous liebacking through crux #2.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack awaits me.
The crack awaits me.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fishing for a piece!
Fishing for a piece!
Rock Climbing Photo: It's go time.  September 2010
It's go time. September 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Nomi in the long corner.
Scott Nomi in the long corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Robb works through the first crux of Sheila.
Robb works through the first crux of Sheila.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alan Cleary on top of the route
Alan Cleary on top of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the chimney.
Looking down from the chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: post climb air-out / redpoint robe climb
post climb air-out / redpoint robe climb
Rock Climbing Photo: start of the crux
BETA PHOTO: start of the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty intimidating from down here.
Pretty intimidating from down here.
Rock Climbing Photo: anchors

Comments on Sheila Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 9, 2017
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 12, 2007

The Bishop guide book calls for a 6" piece, but I couldn't find anywhere to place it. Extra 2-3" cams are useful.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Aug 25, 2007

Beautiful climb. Small stuff towards the end of the long corner.
By Jonathan Howland
Jul 3, 2009

Re: the 6 inch piece the first commentator didn't place -- it very nicely protects the crux lieback move. Alternatively, or in addition, once you start the lieback (and well above your last gear) you can get 2" piece (gold C4) high and deep in a recessed crack behind the block your hands are on.
By Denis O'Connor
Oct 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

FA: John Fischer, Jay Jensen, 1971
By PumpkinEater
From: Sacramento
Aug 17, 2010

I would suggest carrying the 6" piece to protect the crux layback if, like me, you're trad lead limit is at around 5.10. I thought the layback was pretty committing and a fall would, it seemed to me, smash you back into the dihedral below. Pneumothorax anybody? On the bright side, at the top of the layback there's a jug and spot where you can literally straddle a pillar and have a seat!
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 31, 2010

There are three fixed cams as of 8-28-10.
1. One below the start of the crux lieback. (got stuck when my partner whipped off the crux, she didn't have a #6)
2. One up and to the left of the lieback. (It is possible to actually climb around the crux and do a variation up and left of the flake. I think this piece is from someone else also climbing this variation, 5.9???)
3. There's a fixed forged friend in the chimney if you look for it. You could actually avoid bringing the #4 at all if you trust this piece. (It was also there in 2008 when I led it.)

Also, the crux is not that difficult, but I recommend moving quickly through it. It is not a place you want to be looking to place gear.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I don't understand why everyone thinks the offwidth layback is "the" crux. It is strenuous, true, but the moves are straightforward and are over relatively quickly. A #6 is easy to place at the very top of the wide part if you stem high, thus making any falls you might take surely clean (non-pneumothorax-inducing).

The crux for me was clearly at the bottom of the route during the ridiculously thin traverse: much harder technically than the layback, not to mention the gear is much harder to fiddle in!

Bring a selection of super small wires and micro-cams. No extra 2s and 3s required (1-2 each are sufficient). I personally did use a #4 above the chimney at the top as my last piece before making the long traverse to the anchors.
By Tavis Ricksecker
Sep 30, 2010

Agree with Aerili, technical crux down low, mental crux at the spooky layback.
By slim
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

probably as good as any 10a pitch i have ever climbed. long, great rock, cool crux down low, cool crux up high, good gear, nice belay ledge, great crack climbing.... pretty sweet.
By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Sep 25, 2011

A #6 is nice for the layback at the top, but I am a little bit scared by layback.
By lou
May 16, 2013

Hey Gang..... re gear...i have a #5 B.D. ..which is fine for a 6 inch crack.... will this work for the wide lieback?? .. not sure from the comments if you need a piece for a 6 inch crack or a #6 B.D.?
Hate to go buy a huge cam... but dont want to run it out... thanks for any beta..
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
May 16, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You'll want a #6 c4 camalot to protect the layback flake, a #5 is too small. Even with the #6, you still need to run it out a little.

I took the ride up there once, when my foot slipped at the very top of the layback. Even though I wasn't really that far above the #6, I still went quite the distance with all of the slack and rope stretch at that point.

Don't worry, it's exciting, but it's a clean fall!
By lou
May 16, 2013

coolio thxs Todd
By J. Hickok
Aug 15, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

To Lou and Todd from the May postings: To expand on the topic, I think the OLD BD #5 would likely work as it was larger, but the new BD #5 C4 would not work as it is smaller. A #5 friend does not fit, but #6 friend would.
By Peter Valchev
From: Truckee, CA
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

+1 on bringing the #6... the lieback would be pretty scary without it!
Awesome pitch!
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Dec 9, 2013

A classic one-pitcher anywhere. Leave the #6 at the ground.
By GhaMby Eagan
From: Heaven
Jan 16, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I have a strong friend that has done this route many times take a fall at the crux lieback, which I certainly think is the crux, he hit his ass pretty hard into the corner despite lots of rope stretch. I definately use and suggest the #6 C4.

The feet at the lieback suck in my not so humble opinion, but I also suck at liebacking. I find that going out left when halfway up the lieback is easiest, but I also have a 6'7" wingspan. . .
By Phil Esra
May 27, 2014

The thin crack at the bottom is pretty hard for the grade. Takes nuts well. The main crack is easy and fun. I brought (and used) a #6. The lieback is strenuous and plenty hard enough, but you can get a good cam immediately before it, and the fall would be clean for a long, long way. Next time I wouldn't bring it.

The easy chimney moves above the lieback are really fun! Followed by a fun, exposed traverse to the chains.
By Melissa Thaw
From: Merced, CA & South Lake Tahoe
May 28, 2015

I agree that the lie back section isn't the crux, but i placed a #6 (not that spooky with a 6). I thought the thin section lower was harder - transferring over into the corner. I placed a micro-nut and some tiny offset cams, which was helpful for me.
By weisseseis
Jun 7, 2015

If you jam the OW section instead of liebacking, you can bump a 6 and then get a finger piece in above before pulling over it, not runout at all. The fist stacks definitely make it a harder climb though.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 24, 2015

John Fisher and Jay Jensen. Taken before their time. RIP.
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Sep 29, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Amazing pitch. I personally would not lead this without the #6 friend. I had one and was really glad to have protection on the burly lieback moves up top.
By psycoticpilgrim
May 31, 2016

What a classic climb! This one meets all the criteria: beautiful setting, impeccable rock, fun and diverse moves, and what a summit! This is not one to be missed.
Technical crux is down low, physical crux the layback section. Good pro to be had before both and on the route as a whole. Leave the #6 on the ground and get on this beauty!
By Cha Tate
From: Saint George, UT
Jul 6, 2016

I agree with Jeff G. I did not bring a 6 cam, and if I did it again I probably would. I also agree this is not 10a, more like 10c. The route can be rapped with a single 70meter rope (I did) but it involved tensioning off the single bolt (out on the left wall from the start of the layback) while on rappel. Then walk the ledge to the anchor of ecstasy, clip in and tension back to the bolt to retrieve your gear. Then a single rap will get you to the start ledge where easy down climbing leads to the ground. If you want to avoid the down climb, rap from the ecstasy chain to a mid way anchor on an old aid line where one more rap will get you to the ground. Then try to avoid the trees when you pull your rope!
By Daniel Vakili
Apr 15, 2017

5.10, you can place bomber #1 below the crux, and bomber #3 during. No #6 needed, even if you fall it seems to be a clean one. There are rap anchors directly above, but the anchors to the right make for better pics. Rapped with a single 80m
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 16, 2017

Many if not most would be happy to have the #6
By Tomko
Jul 9, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

The BD #6 is super useful for the lieback. If I were to go again I'd take extra small pieces (2x red and yellow C3s or equivalent); all the hard parts were on very thin sections of crack, especially the low thin crack.

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