REI Community
Wind Tower - S Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balls of Fire T 
Beluga T 
Blackjack T 
Diffraction T 
Disguise T 
Futile Laments T 
King's X T 
Lion, The T 
Lower Triagonal T 
Metamorphosis, The T 
Muscle Up, The T 
Punter, The T 
Rainbow Wall T,S 
Scotch and Soda T 
SE Chimney T 
Sheer Terror T 
Uplift, The T 
Ur-Ine Trouble T 
Yellow Traverse, The T 

Sheer Terror 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b X [details]
FA: Skip Guerin, Chip Ruckgaber, 1983
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Pins [details]
Page Views: 3,955
Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Apr 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [3 people like this page.]
Finishing the route.

  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Pull up into the roof's apex and crimp up and right to a left-angling, slopey ramp. This is the last chance to chicken out and avoid a really, really, bad fall (great climbing, though). Commit to the slopey ramp and find more hard climbing and similar commiting moves into the final dihedral, where more heinously great and commiting moves are to be found until the top is gratefully reached.

    If Skip Guerin did this in '83, and Fire' climbing shoes didn't get imported to the U.S. until '84, it means Skip did this in EBs, and thus makes him the burliest human I know. That or he's the devil.

    Location 

    Sheer Terror starts in an obvious roof apex about 20'-30' down and to the right of the Scotch and Soda roof. They actually kinda look like roof twinsies.

    Protection 

    Clip 2 OLD pins and an OLD fixed stopper in the roof's apex. This tat will keep you from grounding for the route's technical crux. A crappy red Alien and all the RPs you own are what's left for pro for the next 60'-70'. A pin anchor is at the top.

    Per Brad G: there are no longer any pins at the anchor, just an old rusty nut.


    Photos of Sheer Terror Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: BH on 2nd ascent of Sheer Terror.
    BH on 2nd ascent of Sheer Terror.

    Comments on Sheer Terror Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Wayne Crill
    From: an Altered State
    Apr 10, 2007

    He, he, he. Nice one, Hank! Congrats, bro-.

    W
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Apr 11, 2007

    Nice job! I was walking out of the canyon on Monday about 6pm or so and saw you coming down. I guess I just missed the big show.

    What ever happened to Skip G?
    By Steve Sangdahl
    From: eldo sprngs,co
    Apr 13, 2007

    Hank, killer 2nd ascent. It really puts Skip's climbing talent into perspective given how long ago that was climbed, the gear he was using, the rock shoes he was probably wearing, and the crude mind altering substances he was on at the time of his lead. Let's also give credit to his equally fuked up belayer, Chip Rockgrabber.
    Skip can usually be found partying up on the hill with college chics.
    By Brad G
    From: 1994 Honda Civic
    Jun 25, 2014

    There are no longer any pins at the anchor, just an old rusty nut.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Jun 25, 2014

    Heads up on the poison ivy at the base of the route.
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 26, 2014

    The poison ivy is the least of your worries on this route. :)
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Jul 2, 2014

    As the fearless belayer, it actually is.

    Maybe it is second behind the manky anchor ripping while I am screaming TAKE on toprope.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Jul 2, 2014

    You should put together a risk assessment/hazard analysis chart for this route. That would be pretty funny - the whole thing would pretty much be red.
    By Brad G
    From: 1994 Honda Civic
    Jul 20, 2014

    The poison ivy at the base is the most of Phil's worries.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Apr 16, 2015

    Yes, Skip Guerin was truly the baddest and the best in The West. He may have had sticky rubber Fire shoes. I got my first pair in June 1983. They weren't available the first half of that year. Either way, this is one lead I had no interest in repeating.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About