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(3) Red Wall
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Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
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Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 
Kashmir S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Opus S 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 

Sheer Stress 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Charlie Priest & Charlie Martin-1975
Page Views: 3,822
Submitted By: Adam Therneau on Jun 3, 2007

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Having fun on Sheer Stress.

Description 

This is the mega classic thin crack/corner to the right of Classic Crack on the Red Wall.

Pitch 1 - A balancey mix of face and liebacking gets you through the first twenty feet, which is the crux. After this a fun mantle and easier but engaging climbing takes you to the bolted anchor.

Pitch 2 - Traverse right to a large block then follow the hand and finger crack through the overhanging upper wall to the right of Pinhead. The last ten feet are surprisingly steep and give the route an exciting, perfectly protected crux finish.

Location 

At the top of the approach trail go right 50ft to the Red Wall. Obvious thin crack with lots of chalk to the right of classic crack and thai stick.

Protection 

Pro to .75", extra small nuts and microcams for the first pitch. Pitch two takes pro to 2" and one #3 camalot to protect the finish.


Photos of Sheer Stress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Amy, smooth as silk.
Amy, smooth as silk.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of p1.
Top of p1.
Rock Climbing Photo: very fun
very fun
Rock Climbing Photo: follow the rope to 1st anchor over the arete
follow the rope to 1st anchor over the arete

Comments on Sheer Stress Add Comment
Show which comments
By peachy spohn
Aug 19, 2007

one of the best 5.10 climbs at Broughtons.
By BenCooper
Nov 22, 2009

Agreed. A fine climb with some very thin moves through the crux. I placed one #0 TCU, and that seemed sufficient through the crux. Another one wouldn't hurt though. I'd recommend being solid at the grade on this one.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
May 20, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The 2nd pitch can be strung together as a single long pitch if starting with Sheer Energy and slinging the last bolt as you move right. This is highly recommended. Gear to 4".

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