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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Sheer Lunacy 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Kevin McLaughlin
Page Views: 156
Submitted By: Kevin McLaughlin on Dec 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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K. McLaughlin on the F.A.

Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


This route climbs the right side of the wall,traverses left and then goes over the small roof. Step left to anchors. Across the canyon from the Virgin.


It is across from the Virgin.


4 bolts.

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By Chris Cavallaro
Dec 19, 2007

If I remember right, this climb was great but needed the anchors relocated closer to the edge.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Sep 23, 2009

With the anchors (shared) so far to the left it's best to belay the second from the top, otherwise cleaning the route is a PITA.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
May 11, 2014

In my opinion, this route needs bolt hangers that do not flex when you clip them and a separate anchor. It's impossible to clean, and the second is looking at a really crappy swing/fall on cleaning. In addition, don't blow the 3rd clip on lead or you will get smashed into the dihedral. There seems to be a permanent leaver biner on this third bolt.
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 12, 2014

Come on out for the rebolting event on May 24th and you can fix it.
By A. Bandos
Jun 19, 2016

Only 4 bolts to no anchors. Was not happy to find out that after pulling the thin roof. Fun moves though.

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