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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Shear Strength 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, April 1988
Page Views: 5,541
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jun 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Jackie Hueftle on route. Photo: Andy Mann.

Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


This route is on the NE facing Mercy Wall, just across the canyon from the Virgin Wall. It goes into the shade by 1pm in the summer and is a good option while the rest of the canyon roasts.

Eds. this is the middle route on the wall that follows the seam. The guidebook is actually incorrect. The previously submitted description was that of Dazed and Confuzed.


5-6 bolts and anchors.

Photos of Shear Strength Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dillon on the lead- Penitente Canyon.
Dillon on the lead- Penitente Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: K. McLaughlin on the F.A.
K. McLaughlin on the F.A.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great Penitente crack!
Great Penitente crack!
Rock Climbing Photo: On lead.
On lead.

Comments on Shear Strength Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 26, 2002

Short and sweet like most of the routes at Penitente. Definitely gives a pump which outweighs its length.
By Dougald MacDonald
May 14, 2007

Super-fun and interesting climbing. More like Eldo than Penitente.
By FCJohn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 7, 2010

Very Cool slab/tips climbing leads to a cruxy heady last move. Reminded me of the moves on Eldo's Superslab.
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 18, 2011

Fantastic! Great technical moves - and what a striking line!
By William Mondragon
Oct 17, 2012

Go back to Boulder! This thing is straight out of Penitente. Way more pockets on this than one might think.
By slim
Oct 17, 2012

Way more pockets at Eldo than one might think....
By Devin Fin
Oct 18, 2012

Slim, I'm going have to go with Sr. William on this one. There are more pockets then you would think...but don't go back to Boulder, Slim. I respect you an' yer posts .... Sr. William is the fresh prince of Del' I respect that...he does a lot of work in the valley.
By slim
Oct 18, 2012

Coolio. Just horsing around a bit - although Eldo does indeed have more pockets/huecos than one might think.

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