REI Community
First Crag
Select Route:
Dead End TR 
Fern Gully S 
Fern Hueco TR 
He Broke It S 
Off Width T,TR 
Peril S,TR 
She Broke It S,TR 
Steril S 
Tombstone TR 
Trent Stone S 
Unnamed T,TR 

She Broke It 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring Sumer
Page Views: 400
Submitted By: Chuck on Jun 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chuck Ashcraft on She Broke It.

Description 

Start just right of the 10' tombstone flake. It is the left of the only 2 bolted routes on this wall. The Crux is the first 15'and it appears that the holds have broken off leaving small crimps. Stick clipping the first bolt is a wise choice. Once you reach the ledge the climb is strait forward.

Protection 

Four fixed bolts and two for the anchor. If you are top roping, extend your anchor to reduce friction on your rope.


Comments on She Broke It Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tridogdude
Feb 14, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R

First lead ascent and bolted by Jon Stahl and Stan Justice.
The route was ready to get bolted when Laura Ierien pulled off a flake about 15 feet off the deck.
Stahl came back in the next week and bolted the route and led it. The first bolt is located 15' off the deck at the crux. One can choose to stick clip since the landing could be very serious without mats or spotter.
Stahl put the first bolt above crux to add a more serious lead.
By Richard Shore
May 27, 2013

The upper half of this route is really fun, but unfortunately suffers from a very forced start on crappy holds. One could climb right or left or the line by just a few feet. And as far as the comment above about "placing to high bolt to make it a more serious lead"... what a bunch of crap. Stick clip the damn bolt, this is sport climbing. A top-down, rap bolted route with a purposely intended runout? Get real, that isn't "serious", that's called contrived boldness. Rant over.

A better line would be to start from the top of the tombstone flake and then traverse a few feet right into the line, following the natural features.
By thomas ellis
From: abq
Mar 12, 2014

I added a bolt to the bottom of this making it a safer more natural feeling lead. Coming in from the right side of bolt line is a nice v4 boulder start.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About