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Shattered Glass 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darrell Hensel, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,422
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Mar 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This is an added value link up of Window Shopper with the second pitch of Supergrinder. Do Window Shopper. At the anchor make a couple of moves (crux) to gain the patina up and right. Climb past 3 bolts to join the second pitch of Supergrinder at it's second bolt.

With an 80m rope it is possible to lower to the Shopper anchor. Not sure about a 70m. A 70m works getting back to the Grinder anchor. Or two rapps, or two ropes. An 80m will also reach to within a few feet of the ground (easy downclimb) as a straight shot rapp. Endless options for getting off.

Protection 

21 bolts. The use of a couple of full length runners to straighten the rope run is helpful. Skipping or back cleaning some of the bolts also helps, particularly on Window Shopper (the 2nd, left most bolt for sure.)


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By Vlad S
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I didn't figure it out the first time around, but after getting some beta thought the climb is awesome! The move off the intermediate anchor is a huge reach (I was barely able to do it at 5'8") to a very positive awesome crimp. After a few more cool moves you merge into the supergrinder just after its crux and keep going for 50 m of awesomeness! 70 m rope will just BARELY get you down to the shopper anchor - my belayer had inches of rope left, so maybe don't count on it or tie a knot?!
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Aug 25, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

An incredible link between two already great routes. It's a little commiting climbing through the crux and looking down at the window shopper anchor below you. There are several good rests after the crux, even a great no hands rest before some edgy business merging into the second pitch of supergrinder. This is why I feel the .11d rating is more appropriate. Thanks for putting it up!
By Darrell Hensel
Aug 26, 2014

Glad you liked it. I'm just happy its being done, and hope people keep providing feedback so an accurate rating can fall out of consensus.
By Phil Esra
Apr 21, 2015

So much good climbing! At 5'6", the move off the anchor was cruxy, but I had almost as much trouble with the final move to the Supergrinder clipping rail. Spent more than an hour on a redpoint--lots of stances for hanging out and nervously contemplating beta, all the way through the crux of Supergrinder! (I assume escaping out [RIGHT] and therefore doing the 10d Supergrinder move to that 2nd Supergrinder bolt, is off route.)

Used 4 shoulder slings on Window Shopper to reduce drag [...]

[EDITED to correct beta and delete mind-numbing protection micro-beta weenie spray].
By Darrell Hensel
Apr 22, 2015

Escaping out left? Did you mean out right, and onto Supergrinder earlier? Regardless, defining a natural option as something off-route is a bit ridiculous so I'm not inclined to go there. But to answer the question, going straight up results in a couple more independent moves. At that point, people should do what they want since the line is going into SG anyway. But I think it would miss a few good moves that add to the overall quality of the pitch if SG was joined earlier.

I used two full length runners, one on the rightmost WS bolt, and one on the first bolt after joining SG. That seemed to work fine as well. But then I did a few things like back-cleaning the 2nd WS bolt, and skipping others. Many ways to skin the rope drag cat. But it would be unpleasant if everything was clipped without at least some full length runners.
By Phil Esra
Apr 25, 2015

Doh, sorry, yes, right, not left. I'll edit the original post.

Yeah, Supergrinder p2 2nd bolt is a few inches above a knobby rail/dike extrusion. If you're coming up Supergrinder, the move is sort of left traversing (at least the way I've done it). But you can get to it from directly below if you're coming up Shattered Glass, which is what I did--it felt hard. Before committing to doing it that way on Shattered Glass, I first traversed right, in the vicinity of the 1st bolt on Supergrinder. That would have put me on Supergrinder BEFORE getting to that 2nd bolt, and would have made the move to that 2nd bolt easier. Based on Vlad's comment (join Supergrinder AFTER its crux), I assumed this was off route. But maybe I was overthinking it! (12a is a proud tick for me, so I was sweating all the details...)

Agreed, plenty of ways to deal with the rope drag, as long as you're conscious of it.

But anyway, this route takes all of Window Shopper and combines it with most of the best parts of Supergrinder, and everyone should get on it ASAP because of the cumulative radness.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Jul 20, 2015

An amazing piece of climbing: 5 out of 4 stars.

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