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Redgarden - Tower Two
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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Bill Briggs & Steve Levin, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 945
Submitted By: slevin on Mar 9, 2003

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  • Description 

    Shasta climbs three new independent pitches to the right of Upper Ruper. The only point of intersection with Upper Ruper is the belay at the top of the first pitch.

    Pitch 1: Immediately right of the start of Upper Ruper is a beautiful left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a small stance, then continue up and slightly left below a pronounced hanging corner. At the top of the corner move 10 feet left to Upper Ruper and belay at a small ledge with a fixed pin.

    Pitch 2: Move out right onto a bulging wall, up and slightly right, then left to a break. Continue straight up the steep pocketed wall above, aiming for a hanging left-facing corner that leads to the right edge of a large roof (the roof at which Upper Ruper traverses left). Continue past the corner and a maroon band with stacked blocks. Ten feet above is a good belay stance.

    Pitch 3: From the belay head up and slightly left, then back right aiming for a right-facing corner with a jam crack in it. Continue up the face above to the summit of Tower 2.

    To descend downclimb the last part of the face, then head towards the saddle to the west, and either of the many descent options from there.

    Bill and I enjoyed this climb a great deal. We were surprised to see no signs of previous travel. Although there is still a fair amount of lichen on the route (we led pitches with a wire brush) it has a lot of good climbing and should become popular-- at least 3 parties repeated it the week after the FA. The climbing on the improbable seemingly blank second pitch is very exhilarating. Led ground-up.


    A standard Eldorado rack including RPs and aliens. The route is fairly runout in a couple of spots, particularly on the second pitch.

    Comments on Shasta Add Comment
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    By Bill Wright
    Apr 14, 2003

    I did this climb last Friday with Bill Briggs. He has already done it four times! He thinks this climb is 3-stars, but I agree with Steve: 2-stars. And even that probably depends on the climbing getting a bit cleaner.

    The first two pitches are both S+ in my opinion. The first part of the first pitch is protected great, but the finish is runout and that is the hardest climbing. The pro here is a bit tricky and I think you should be a 5.10 leader to do this pitch safely.The 2nd pitch has a big runout after the technical crux, but even the crux is protected by tiny Aliens of dubious quality.

    That said, I really enjoyed the climb. It is fun covering some near ground and this makes a nice alternative way off from the Upper Ramp. We also found a better way off the summit of T1. Instead of downclimbing part of the last pitch, head down the exact opposite side (mostly to the north) and you'll find big holds just when you need them. This downclimb is probably only 5.2 or so and not nearly as exposed as downclimbing the last pitch.

    Thanks to Steve and Bill for this fun new route.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 28, 2003
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

    Despite its newness this line it is getting traffic, though I have not done it yet. I saw Andy Donson and Don Bushey on it last weekend and this weekend I snagged the line to it's right and crossed it for a while. It's pretty well chalked up and clear for at least a short section. I completed what I am confident is a mostly new pitch from the 2nd belay of Serpent which intersects this climb from the right about 1/2 way up the wall and continues up and left to cross Shasta- about 50M of mostly new climbing, although Shasta does mingle with the line for a short period. I referred to this line as Fresca (5.10, R). As I am more informed of the relationship between these two lines and also between Shasta and the 'terra incognita' I decsribed in my write up of Serpent a few years ago, I'll try to post a clear description. I will add this to the site as Fresca, as it will be referred to from 3 different routes and I'd like to put the info in one place.
    By slevin
    Apr 29, 2003

    The climb is named after my wife's golden retriever, Shasta, who as a puppy lived with an older golden retriever named Ruper, named such because his owner was benighted on Upper Ruper shortly before he got his dog. I thought it fitting that Shasta and Ruper should be side-by-side in Eldorado, a place they both enjoyed very much.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 5, 2003

    It's hard to believe that such an obvious and stellar corner so close to Ruper has escaped detection for so long. After following the 2nd pitch crux and the break that Steve mentions, I served as a bit of a crash-test-dummy and was unwittingly lured by Andy onto a bulging headwall covered in potato-chip-sized lichen flakes. This way goes directly from the break to the hanging left-facing corner and travels over compact rock with very technical movement- probably 5.11. If there was any gear at all on this section, Shasta would be a 3-star classic.-Don Bushey
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 1, 2007
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

    I finally went and did the line in its entirety... I think. The second pitch I started and finished on as described, but I pretty much did the line up the arete just right of P2 of Ruper. I am not sure that was right. Good climbing though- could use some more cleaning/brushing in spots.
    P1: 5.9, PG-13
    P2: 5.10a, S/VS
    P3: 5.9-, S

    It seems to me this climb is presently at its prime as an adventure climb, where the route is still relatively unknown and nebulous, but known to exist and climbable in its present state.

    Aliens probably would have worked better than the micro-Camalots I had, which are too broad and finicky for the rough and uneven placements that might have been better with other cams. As such, I encountered 60' runouts on the P2/P3. Which, may I add, can be run together for a single 68meter pitch with some good sling work, or simply run out like crazy.

    I will reiterate that this is not your average 'S' route. It is not new-age 'S' whereas there is simply no bolt above your head at the crux. This is old-school 'S.' Falling from the crux would be bad. Falling from other places would cripple you or kill you. This is a climb for a seasoned stone master, not an early career goal.
    By dlight
    Oct 12, 2015

    The first two pitches are dirty and contrived. Climbing the route with a wire brush is still a good suggestion. The top pitch is excellent, 5.8 R, it predates Shasta and is better accessed from the Serpent to the right.

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