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Beardsley Boulders
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anarchy Crack T 
Asscrack, The 
Assorted Goods 
Beer Belly 
Brown Sugar S 
Classic Orange 
Double Clutch 
Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 
Fingertip Mantle 
Flake, The TR 
Frosted Flakes 
Grandma got run over by a raindeer S 
gripper, The S 
Hamstring 
Hot Sweaty Buns S 
Mantle Puss 
Monkey Lust 
Monkey Lust Right 
Mr. Mantle 
Naked Bimbos from Mars T 
Pencil Thin 
Pencil Thin Flake 
Pencil Thin, Right Arete 
Perforator right 
Prow, The 
Sharpie 
Short N' Easy 
Spank Your Monkey T 
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 
Unnamed V3 TR 
Virgin, The 
Whales Back 
Wiley Left 
Wiley Right 
Wolf Jr. 
Unsorted Routes:

Sharpie 

Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder, 9'
Original:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: 
Season: Anything but Summer afternoons
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Zek on May 17, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Right foot start. Make the best of a bad situation...

Description 

  • There was some chalk on one of the start holds. I didn't find the route on MP, but I believe it's established starting in the mid-crack area.

Start on two sidepulls: the left is good, right is sharp and shallow.

The feet are awkward for the first move, smear left and jam right foot against a large crack towards the right. Work your way up the crack using two main crimps which you can make your own creative ways to get to.

There's a decent hold around the left corner, which will help you get to the pinch block on top of the boulder, which aids with top out.

The start + first couple of moves are in the V2-V3 range, while the rest of the route is around a V1.

Location 

I haven't seen any routes on this site that use the boulder, though guides might have it. I have attached a gps location. Look for a rock with a horn on top.

Same location as Short N' Easy and Beer Belly.

Protection 

Pad - there is broken glass. The short boulder behind your back shouldn't be a concern unless you're crossing dynamically.


Photos of Sharpie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Look for a boulder with a horn on it
BETA PHOTO: Look for a boulder with a horn on it
Rock Climbing Photo: The right hand start. Unfortunately, it's not as d...
BETA PHOTO: The right hand start. Unfortunately, it's not as d...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the left of the 'horn' boulder
BETA PHOTO: On the left of the 'horn' boulder

Comments on Sharpie Add Comment
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By Trey Lewis
From: Glendale, Az
Jun 4, 2015

The sit start is maybe V2

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